Friday, March 26, 2004

Session 4045: Day 14.

A clear morning is sometimes the hardest morning to get out. When I open the
garage door and get out, it was so cold almost making me wish that I just go
back, take a warm shower and get back into bed. Then that first shot of
water seeping into the suit is a bit painful. But all that is taken care of
then it is all fine and comfortable. I like my new titanium coated rashguard
I got last week. I think this keeps me warmer than the sweater kind.

Almost half way there for a month of consecutive surfing! 11 ft 13 seconds
on W swells and low tide. Getting out was not much of an issue, but sets
continue to close out a considerable amount of power. Today I had one of the
longest body surfing I have ever done after being caught in the white water.
I kept moving with the water.

Another so-so condition day, but appreciated the lack of people on the beach
where no one person is taking over the lineup and spread out. More close
outs and I have heard some dudes talking about being pounded to the bottom
and colliding with his buddies etc.

Wish I could wait until the tide gotten higher.

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