I was looking back my Wave Log and this month, I only missed Friday 12th,
and all the other days, I surfed. That's good, but on the other hands my
arms are becoming a bit fatigued. Also this morning was a bit chilly and I
forgot to zip up the back. I can tell when I do that because as soon as I
duck through a wave, the whole sleeves balloons up.
Surfing on the other hands, continues to be fun this morning. The waves were
a bit more on close-out side and size were getting smaller than yesterday. I
know because the period is considerably shorter today.
Going into the beach 15 minutes before the sun-rise was great. Basically
there are nobody yet, and just Ren and myself can grab any sections we
wanted. But there was a section that was about chest-shoulder high that
looked most appropriate for us so we just stayed in that section for a good
part of the session.
Even though I do all these paddling all these days, taking off is still a
lot of work with the hybrid so I tend to go inside a bit and try to take off
a bit later and let the waves help me take off rather than paddling early to
catch, but I think I should now focus more on putting more power during the
take-off to prepare for learning taking off on more steeper and hollow
Obviously, and needless to say, there is still a lot to learn.