This session denotes my 31st days of surfing this year. As much as I think I am going out, today being the 70th day of the year that comes out to be 44% chance of surfing... a bit less than every other day. Having had a 10-day trip to Japan, stormy days, injury, I guess that's probably OK. I don't even know how Tim Webster guy can claim to have been out every day. There simply are days that you just cannot or should not go.
Today was supposed to be an "wind swell" day so I did an experiment and took a hybrid out and actually that was a good choice. Wind swell days bring these soupy whitewaters that I need to get over and ducking is essential. Also the waves were a bit disorganized. Do you know the "battle zone"section in Disneyland's "Pirates of Caribbean" ride? Where they "randomly" pump the air plumes at various locations to simulate cannon balls hitting the water. They pop up all over the places.
It was sort of like that this morning. Little bumps pop up here and there and disappear and pop again. It was fun catching those.
I am also starting to realize though, I am actually don't mind faster breaks, but I really am afraid of big faster waves. Today I got in a rhythm of paddling out, catching, turning around and catching more of these chest high poppers. I probably caught half-dozen small rides in a period of 10 minutes. So exhausted that a 40 minute session was just enough for me. Got out, got a hot coffee and a donut and I was so satisfied.
Stoke 6
LC:LMB:NNW:8F:11S:LT:NNW:12K:A76
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