Interesting seascape this morning at 6:00 AM. On the North end the there
were huge 2 to 3 x overhead sets closing out. In the middle was a strong
channel current going out but very rough. Then to the South was overhead
sets throwing out tubular shape closeouts. There were a couple of short
boarders trying to catch those, but were just dumping so fast and ending
that not getting much in the way of the rides. I think that should the tide
be a bit higher, it would have been better, but like yesterday, I was in the
lowest of the low tide time. Towards the start of the session, I was in the
middle section and trying to catch reforms after these huge sets crumbled.
There was so much more water pushing today, the outgoing current was also
stronger and so getting out was kind of fun. Once I was out, though I was
still not sure whether I will be positioned right or would be pounded right
under the curling "C".
For those surfers flaked out this morning, even though on days like this
there bounds to be a few in the size and speed that I can go for. Scored 2
rides. Stoke 6.