Back to weekly routine of stopping by at LM and surf before hitting the desk. The condition was kind of junky with lots of small agitations (it has been kind of a theme for the last week or so). Negotiating for a "getting out" meant that I looked like a small fishing boat in northern Hokkaido in the deep of the water, just being agitated and not moving much. As small mounds of water pops and break in small bits, I turn left and right to avoid and find the valley through which to get out. Actually this seems to happen a lot when I am in a rip tide, so I was hopeful that I get free rides.
When I first got on my 7'6 last April, I was tipping over all over the places, but as far as that goes, I came a long way, now I am paddling out even in that kind of situation without grabbing the board, so it was kind of fun getting out.
Like many times I encountered this week, and even at Manresa yesterday, weves were breaking in very small sections so I actually had a bit of fun finding and chasing these peaklettes. Again if I was one of these guys ripping on these types of waves on short boards, I would have done the same, but it is still a way to go.
Lately, I think I am lacking the focus on both surfing and the life in general, and so I am starting to think more in terms of getting focus. So after getting out of the water, I went back to work and tried not to be distracted so much. Part of a help I got is an ISP outage that essentially stopped all the flow of e-mail messages....
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