This morning, I worked on "work" stuff since 6:30 through 9:30 then headed
out to the LM. It still amazes me how many "familiar" faces are out there at
that time of the day. For example this one person was there yesterday in the
line up when I was surfing before 8:00. Today she is there again.
Another interesting observation is that, just as many times I see similar
people, it always looks like the good people have always been good from the
first time I saw and not-so-good people (I am in that category), are also
have always been not-so-good. I have not yet noticed very many people that I
can say "Wow, that guy/chick has gotten hot recently!" So I must only
conclude that some people were born with surf boards and wax, and others
have to pay cash at some point in their life. Otherwise my observations do
not make sense.
As for my own surfing, we were getting shoulder to head highs, quite a bit
on a mushy side today and so getting the long board was the right idea and I
caught a bunch of waves, and was very fun. As the tide went out so did the
quality of the waves. On the way back the Jetty looked decent with about hip
high but very clean.
Today's stoke was almost 8. Who can refuse a decent weather day like this.
Man, though, this is already March and only been out 24 times this year. May
be in the summer I put two sessions in a day so I can do some catching up.