What a phenomenal week I had! Almost every day this past week had some great
experience surfing. I think, should I say it, it is attributed partly to the
switch back to long boarding. It looks like I need still a lot to learn on a
longer and more stable board, so my year's goal of nailing down the
"Roundhouse Cutback" may not be achieved this year. Or may be I may get
One thing for sure, I really need to rework the very basics of good surfing
from good take off, line selections ending with a perfect pull-out every
Also helpful is the start of the last "Spring" type pattern like where we
got a period of time where the swell height did not go up significantly but
the period has been consistently greater than 15 seconds, and the overall NW
direction. It looks like the W swell is pretty bad for HMB, as it causes the
closeouts and up in the LM, the swell don't get caught very much. Whereas NW
swells seem to work at the LM, and when the period gets longer than 15-17
seconds, the NW swells also seems to work some magic in HMB. Just very
This afternoon, I spent time showing and fixing board damages for Reez and
Aimee. I am gaining more experience in this area as I fix more boards. I
have gotten quite better at handling the 13000 RPM grinder, and now I just
use it to curve out the fill zones and also chip off excess resin after
filling the damages. They are super-fast, but if you hold it steady, you can
actually shave zones off rather delicately.
Overall stoke for this week was 8.
Today I was stoked about 8.