I had a 9:30 meeting this morning. It does not really make any logical
sense, but when I have less time in the morning, I tend to visit LM. Though
the Jetty looked very inviting this morning from "The 1" (notice that I am
already becoming like a So Cal Dude with tar spots on my board).
Since I designated this to be the long board week, I took it out and got in
the water, then because of the prevailing winds I was caught inside for a
while with lots of small soupy waves. Returning to the shore and I
reassessed the entry and found a good channel. It is always worth checking
from the shore of the overall situation when a situation like this happens.
There was another guy in the same original spot I was and he still seemed to
have been struggling to get out.
There was a period of time and place though the waves were mashing out, so
for a while I was frantically going N-S and finding spots. But then finally
I saw one spot that was further out but getting about head high with nice
gliding type break. Nobody except me and David (a very great local long
boarder) knew about this break this morning, so that was really a lucky
chance. I caught the first big one as it approached and built up into a head
high roller. "This is it! I started to paddle toward the shore strongly. The
wave is not closing out, but creating a nice slope, I jumped up on the board
right away without a hesitation."
I am starting to understand the judgment of the wave formation, observation
of them as I ride, and making the turns in correct directions to stay on the
ride. It gives me a lot of thrill. Going to Santa Cruz at the 38th and
Cowells have really paid off in this department. It is a lot of fun to make
a judgment, and the wave happens in the way you thought it would and the
board picks up more speed... like, I can extract more power from the waves
so I am starting to get out of stalling situations I used to have. It will
be interesting to build upon these skills to surf like more advanced
surfers! Still, sometimes, actually quite often, I over turn and board goes
vertical while I go completely flat horizontal, and signifies the great
Looking at the watch, the time getting close to the end of the session this
I was praying "One more before the time is up!" Then it came. I scored
another great ride. It really keeps me happy the rest of the day to finish a
great morning session like today!
As for the meeting, as usual, was promptly blown off when I arrived at work.
Lost additional 30 minutes of surfing!
Overall Stoke: 8.
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