Thursday, March 04, 2004

Session 4025: Long Forgotten Jetty, But...

The swell period and direction became similar to some of the good times I
had at the Jetty last year, so I decided to give it a try this morning. Last
night the 10 ft swells from NW were pushing up to 20 seconds period. Even
this morning it was like 15 seconds so that usually means that we can get
the Jetty to break further out.

In fact it was breaking further out closer to the Jetty side. But I am still
very confident about going that far closer to the rocks and possibly having
another visit to the Seaton Coastside again in a month. I still have not
even gotten a bill from the last one, so I should give it a bit of space, or
otherwise, you would see a "patient of the month photo" one of the walls at
the hospital soon.

There were several short boarders, and especially one dude getting an air
closer to the rocks and looking from the side of it, it was about 1.5 x OVH
with the usual strong fast wall action. I think that if you are a hot
shortboarder this is really a great spot.

Buy, for me, one of the issues at the Jetty, especially on a day and tide
like this is there are a lot of bouncing waves kicking back out.

I paddled between E and W several times to find a reasonable spot. Also, in
retrospect, it would have been better to have a shorter board there. Days
like this make me further appreciate the nice slow big waves in Santa Cruz
and inside Rincon!

As the time went by the wind picked up (blowing the board) and also the tide
went down. It was time to leave.

So I did not catch only but one this morning!

Stoke Level 4


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