It is really like the summer now (except for the wind). We got hot day and
we got wind swells. I ended up going over the lunch time instead of in the
morning. I was up before the sunrise, but what happened was that the Scripps
Institute web page was broken since 4:00 a.m. this morning until 8:05 or so,
and my home page was hung (as it turned out to be). So I ended up fixing my
web software to handle that kind of situations, then I kept on working on
"work work" stuff until the lunch time, had a nice sandwich at San Benito
House then headed up to the usual LM then to work. Actually I am writing
this while I am fixing Microsoft Office on my computer...
Well, I almost did not go. Looking at the beach it looked kind of flat, then
some small sets started to come in and breaking in bunch of sections like in
the summer time. These are actually one of my favorite wind wave breaks
where I take in the hybrid, wait "way inside", sneak up to where things are
going to pop, wait until the very last minute while most outside people
screw up(and they do most of the time) then quickly turn around, then just a
one or two paddles and I am in. At the spot where I put myself, it is
already so steep (but small) that I don't hardly need to paddle. It is
almost like a small puff of a booster fuel explode in the tail, and it takes
off. I don't think people surf in Santa Cruz exclusively probably don't
know what kind of condition I am talking about...
I did this for an hour or so, then had to go back to the office. I could
have caught bunch more if my turn-around is totally good... I mess it up
about 50% of the time yet... pretty frustrating.
So I am glad I went out today. Glad I did not pick the condition, but let
the condition pick me.
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