Tuesday, March 09, 2004

Session 4029: Nice weather but...

Sorry I cannot tell you where I surfed today. But I had nobody in the lineup both 2 miles left and right of me. It was just me hogging all the waves if I could, but I did very poorly.
When I arrived at the beach, the waves looked quite good with up to chest to shoulder high sets stuff coming in, a bit on the steeper side but I thought this is something I can catch no problem.
But this beach had enormous shore breaks today, so I am timing it to jump in and dash out, but just more and more stuff were exploding right at the shore. Even worse, once you dip you feet in, you get sucked right under so there were a couple of dangerous moment where I am being sucked under and then crashed down at the same time. Going in was a bit easier, but getting out was so much more difficult as the backwash pulled back the board at such a tremendous force that I could not hang onto it to get out. This is a similar situation that happens at Montara all the time, but I did not know it will be like this here.
Thinking of Manresa beach breaks, it is much more gentle than this there. I guess the sand is not so sloping steeply there. Well, you can almost tell that because in Manresa there is quite a bit of distance from the bluff to the water than most beaches here (except for Linda Mar).
So, what about the waves. Once you are in them, they were really powerful. What I can normally duck under, the board got flipped over and pushed back. They were so much more powerful than they look pushing a whole lot more water through. I did score a couple of rides and they were very thrilling as they push so much faster.
It was a kind of day when I tried to get in a bunch of sets came in, and once I was in, none of the sets happened where I was. And when I paddle to other hot section then where I was gotten hotter again.
Stoke 5

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