Session 7099 DP

The day is sure getting shorter. How do I notice that? Well, it is called setting the alarm clock at 5:30 AM in the morning. Now at 5:30 it started to be dark.

How do I know if it is getting darker?

That's because our cat patiently awaits in the morning, and as soon as I step out of the bed, she will show her way to the food tray, and it is so dark that I need to turn the lights on to get there. Even a month ago, it was not like that.

Of course it is even darker when it is foggy out.

It continues to amaze me that us surfers tend to be so much more tuned to the natural cycle of the planet, sun rise/set and moon, tide, winds... And that makes it really appreciate the changes.

Summer DP surfing continues at local beaches as more options are starting to opening up this past week. It has been a lot of fun actually because there are plenty of challenging wave shapes and situations that are really fun for short boarding. If not for you, for me, at least.

I am continuing to work on getting up on the board faster, in control when the waves are faster. This morning, there were couple of better surfers catching a lot more waves than I was, but I am starting to catch these waves too. It has taken me over 4 years of 150+ days a year of surfing. But I am starting to realize that I am just about at the end of the first phase of being a beginner surfer and becoming a totally new beginner of the second phase.

Tomorrow on the 100th session of this year, and I am going to start to think a bit differently on how to develop my surfing in upcoming sessions.

Sessions 7097, 7098A, 7098B

We are really into this summer NW wind swell pattern that's just perfect for places. And finally, it will be the 100th day of surfing this year tomorrow. Summer brings small surfs, but it also opens up possibilities of places were we don't normally get to surf.

But also it has been too bad for the Jetty this summer. I actually feel sorry about local kids who rely on this spot. Now we are already talking about back to school sale (didn't you used hate it when you heard that?)

I have been continuing to work on paddling muscles and also fine tuning take off techniques all this spring and summer. I have basically gotten rid of that fearful feeling of currents, and I think I am starting to be looking forward to the times when the NW swells gets to be 14-15 seconds day at the Jetty in the winter. This winter, I can paddle out further out with much more confidence and also I can try taking off to more varieties of wave shapes.

But before that, I am looking forward to the fall surfing. The wind is starting to really calm down both in the morning, and in the late afternoon, and sun is out now many more days.

Surfing just before the fall dusk is really pleasant way of ending a day.