Friday, August 03, 2007

Session 7099 DP

The day is sure getting shorter. How do I notice that? Well, it is called setting the alarm clock at 5:30 AM in the morning. Now at 5:30 it started to be dark.

How do I know if it is getting darker?

That's because our cat patiently awaits in the morning, and as soon as I step out of the bed, she will show her way to the food tray, and it is so dark that I need to turn the lights on to get there. Even a month ago, it was not like that.

Of course it is even darker when it is foggy out.

It continues to amaze me that us surfers tend to be so much more tuned to the natural cycle of the planet, sun rise/set and moon, tide, winds... And that makes it really appreciate the changes.

Summer DP surfing continues at local beaches as more options are starting to opening up this past week. It has been a lot of fun actually because there are plenty of challenging wave shapes and situations that are really fun for short boarding. If not for you, for me, at least.

I am continuing to work on getting up on the board faster, in control when the waves are faster. This morning, there were couple of better surfers catching a lot more waves than I was, but I am starting to catch these waves too. It has taken me over 4 years of 150+ days a year of surfing. But I am starting to realize that I am just about at the end of the first phase of being a beginner surfer and becoming a totally new beginner of the second phase.

Tomorrow on the 100th session of this year, and I am going to start to think a bit differently on how to develop my surfing in upcoming sessions.


zenbonz........ said...

I like that thought. I am at the end of one stage of surfing...paddling and fretting. Now another stage....refinement and subtlety begin.

Manabu said...


I see that you are also seeking the keys to the staircase, the door for which you may even did not know existed before. Just as we thought that we found the top of the stairs, is another door that we need to figure out how to open it.