Friday, March 28, 2008

Session 8033

Day 33
Where Are The Good Waves?

Still the low tide conspiring on me. I felt some south swells hitting on my head though.

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Session 8032 - Never on a zero tide!

Day 32

This week the tide and the time has been conspiring against me. This morning I had to go out while at zero tide time, and it was just really bad. I did not catch a wave. About the only thing I got out of this morning was duck diving practice.

This is a kind of a day that when you paddle out for a bit, the tail fin starts to scrape the sand and you know you hit the sand bar, and when you stand, it is only ankle deep, and you are several hundred yards away from the shore!

Under this situation the waves would not take shape, all close out and that's about it.

I am still thankful that I got today's exercise, but it is always nice to catch at least a couple of waves.

Looking at the NOAA WaveWatch forecasts, there will be some south swells hitting us soon. I hope they will bring back some fun this weekend.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Session 8031 "Glass Off"

Day 31

Today was one of the first "glass off" sessions of this year... At least I would consider this as the official one. I've checked the beach after work a few times, but today I did do just about an hour session at one of my home breaks.

I am happy to say that I did get one really satisfactory ride today, but unfortunately that's about the only one I got.

You might ask, what is a satisfactory ride?

Obviously that's really subjective and it is even subject to change depending on the condition. For example, if a condition is great and I got a ton of waves, I may come back and write here "I did not have a satisfactory ride." What could have happened there? Well, under such circumstance, the bar gets really high. So even if I had several 10-second rides, and if I almost had one ride I thought I could do significantly better than others, but screwed up somehow then I would be totally disappointed.

This afternoon, however, the condition was not all that great. But in spite of that I had a great one ride that I could continue to ride for some time. That's satisfactory because of all of the adverse condition, I was able to make a wave.

This is actually important to me because this could have been one of a contest day and that kind of a ride could have made me to score higher than the others (though, if this was a contest day, I will guarantee you that there are bunch of surfers that would magically make all these waves and look like they are having a real fun! And that makes going to see contests on worst days a more interesting experience.)

You think that contest is a full of B.? I will have to tell you this. Every one of you have successfully out-paddled other s****ms at your very very early ages. Or you would not be here reading this. You should be thankful that you did win that contest of life-time in that regards. Ar least I am thankful that you are reading this, have met many of you, and I thank you!

Now go surf!

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Session 8030

Day 30

It is already mid March and this year I have only surfed for a "month." I was taking a bath on another day and looking as my tummy, I remembered the reason why I have to surf as often as possible. It is the only form of exercise I get I like to get.

This is kind of typical waves this morning when I was "too far out." Waves did not quite break.

At least it was fairly easy to get out as you can see. Not much roughness.

This would have been a ridable wave.
Already it is doubling up.

This is typically where I line up. Not by the walls because there were already a few people on it. And this spot was breaking.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Monday, March 17, 2008

Session 8028: Waxing

Day 28

Waxing Issue
The strong winds going for the past few days have caused the water temperture to drop close to 50F measured at local buoys. 50F is definitely on the cold side. The coldest I have surfed was at 48F, and 48 is significantly colder feeling with my toes and finger tips starting to tignle.
Another thing I have been noticing is that the when I was taking off on past few sessions there were some times the board slipped under myself and missed on otherwise ridable waves. That was what happend in the pervious session a lot.
So from now on, I will comb the surface well and another things I am going to do is to switch to SexWax Purple instead of Green, and this morning I actually had a couple of really great long rights on my 7'2 Egg. Wish you were there to see me do that. Even the condition was still a bit on a messy side there really were some nice waves that came through a few times.

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Session 8027

Day 27

This morning at the Jetty was almost there condition wise. Could have used a less winds out in the ocean. Nice sunny day. Wish the condition held up a bit better.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Session 8026

Day 26

Caught in a bit of rip, easy to get out, but it was a hell to get back. A few really fun rides, but the condition changed quickly.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Thursday, March 06, 2008

Session 8024: Just enjoy the pics

Day 24

Another nice low wind spring morning. Same spot as yesterday. We will be there again tomorrow morning. I got some pictures that I am happy with. Enjoy!

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Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Session 8023: The First Day of Spring Surfing (for me)


Day 23

This morning was definitely Spring like in terms of the weather, the temperture in the air, and the return of the sight of "regular, familiar" local faces at the beach. From this time of the year on until late October is going to like this as the day getting longer, more variety of people out in the water. This morning was suffring from a bit of mess from the prevailing winds out in the ocean, and getting out at the "northern" part of the beach was a bit tough, unless you ride the rip out, in which case it was just easy.

With not having been out for a while, I can feel that my paddling strength is starting to suffer and probably supplementing that with in-house excercise is starting to be a daily legimen.

You can see that it is a bit of mess to get out there.

I don't know why this picture looks a bit distorted, but hey it is taken on a cheap wrist cam. What can you expect?

I always see one or two people cleaning up this beach every time I am there regardless of the weather. I always give a bit of hand to pick up some stuff near myself. When days gets nicer, unfortunately, there will be more trash. When the fog will return in no time and we will begin to have relatively cleaner beach again!

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