Session 8030

WavLOG

Day 30

It is already mid March and this year I have only surfed for a "month." I was taking a bath on another day and looking as my tummy, I remembered the reason why I have to surf as often as possible. It is the only form of exercise I get I like to get.

This is kind of typical waves this morning when I was "too far out." Waves did not quite break.











At least it was fairly easy to get out as you can see. Not much roughness.














This would have been a ridable wave.
Already it is doubling up.














This is typically where I line up. Not by the walls because there were already a few people on it. And this spot was breaking.