Today was one of the first "glass off" sessions of this year... At least I would consider this as the official one. I've checked the beach after work a few times, but today I did do just about an hour session at one of my home breaks.
I am happy to say that I did get one really satisfactory ride today, but unfortunately that's about the only one I got.
You might ask, what is a satisfactory ride?
Obviously that's really subjective and it is even subject to change depending on the condition. For example, if a condition is great and I got a ton of waves, I may come back and write here "I did not have a satisfactory ride." What could have happened there? Well, under such circumstance, the bar gets really high. So even if I had several 10-second rides, and if I almost had one ride I thought I could do significantly better than others, but screwed up somehow then I would be totally disappointed.
This afternoon, however, the condition was not all that great. But in spite of that I had a great one ride that I could continue to ride for some time. That's satisfactory because of all of the adverse condition, I was able to make a wave.
This is actually important to me because this could have been one of a contest day and that kind of a ride could have made me to score higher than the others (though, if this was a contest day, I will guarantee you that there are bunch of surfers that would magically make all these waves and look like they are having a real fun! And that makes going to see contests on worst days a more interesting experience.)
You think that contest is a full of B.? I will have to tell you this. Every one of you have successfully out-paddled other s****ms at your very very early ages. Or you would not be here reading this. You should be thankful that you did win that contest of life-time in that regards. Ar least I am thankful that you are reading this, have met many of you, and I thank you!
Now go surf!