Saturday, March 13, 2004

Session 4032: Stoke 8 @ Outside Cowells Today

When there is a decent amount of energy out in the ocean it is very interesting to drive the Hwy 1 from HMB to SC. One of two favorite spots is the high bluff between the section of San Gregorio and Pescadero Creek. You can see swells coming in uniformly for miles, and it is dramatic, especially early in the morning where the waves cast more shadows. This usually ups the stokes.
The second section I like is the Pigeon Point. I've read somewhere that usually when this spot is happening, then the west side is happening too. I think I agree.
This was a kind of a day where people look down on surfing at the Cowells should have a second look. On the outside, there were occasional overhead waves that connected all the way almost to the beach. We ended up having 8 of our friends meeting and surfing, but all scattered around.
It is great to get into these waves and with a ride lasting good 20-30 seconds, you can try a lot of different turns. Of course, when you are done with your ride, you will be subjected a 5-minute paddle-back, which is probably the only bad aspect of it. Instead of paddling, we can walk around the point. This seems to be a popular technique for point break spots like here and Rincon (Rincon means "Corner" in Espaniol, well... OK... Rincon in Espaniol means Corner in English, of course for Japanese, Rincon and Lincoln sounds the same, so why the former president got anything to do with surfing! Now I wonder, which president of the US was a surfer? Nixon with a house at the Trestle?)
As for my progress, I really need to work on confident take-offs every time, especially in a place like SC where a mistake could mean a painful collision to the "insiders," and that is a part of the fear that I ended up developing lately and also fighting.
Speaking of this, I really don't like people who follow directly behind me when paddling out. This was one of the days last week, and I was minding my way out, and I actually did not know I was being followed directly behind. Now a good chance comes, I quickly turn around to catch it and this guy was right behind me. Luckily I just missed him to the left, of course I had to eat a lot of water. My brain has instantly and automatically executed a parallel search for a good set of words to utter and offered them to my voice cords to execute, but my conscience kept my mouse shut. 
Don't you hate it when that happens! I followed him around the rest of the session until he left... Not.

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