North swell 3.0 ft 9 sec NW 302
South swell 2.8 ft 17 sec S 195
Medium oncoming tide.
This morning, I stopped by at the HMB Jetty and the condition was great. With only 5-6 people out and maximum set wave height of 1 to 1.5 OVH. I had a spectacular drop down on one of these faces, but was way too far back and wiped out at the bottom. Also I finally had a controlled take-off-at-an-angle to the right, and standing inside the cresting OVH wave face. I think that I am starting to get a hang of it and a practice with Richard Schmidt helped quite a bit.
Days like this make me really glad that I can surf in HMB. Just there is nobody around and I can try whatever moves I want into many many sets, with the sky sunny and practically no wind, I wish I could stay longer.
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