Thursday, May 22, 2003

THR PM from LM

I recall this happening a lot last year, when the Pacific Waverider says that the conditions are "Poor" at Linda Mar it is still surfable and actually I had some good time. That time has returned. Since I worked late last night for software upgrade (it was not even my issue, but one of my "worker" could not even cut it, OK, I will stop at that), I decided to get out of work and get in the water before I get home.
The LM was back into this type of summer wind-swell condition where you get waves after waves after waves to get outside, then we just sit and wait for bigger sets to come in. As you may know already, I have started to surfing last May, and I am kind of happy that I do not hesitate to go out in this kind of condition, and as much as my ducking sucks pretty much at this point, I now manage to get outside. Once I get the ducking completely figured out, then these kind of conditions are no longer an issue (but today it is still a bit of an issue).
On these days, the shoulder high white waters are powerful enough that I usually sit a bit inside and just wait for waves to start breaking. With a just a few more paddle, I can usually catch on reforms and I get fun rides (and more rides than people sitting out). With these it is not that easy to steer into the waves, but I like these "rough" rides. Sometimes the reforms doubles and triples up, and if I am not fast enough they catch me, and I fall, but then sometimes I can get ahead of them and get quite fun good rides almost all the way to the shore.
Further out, some good people were riding good wave faces. I must practice a bit more to do that, or get my 8'6 out and be like most other long boarders at this beach.
I am looking forward to see how the spring and summer will bring, what they will be like now that I am a bit better than the last year. But I also know there is a lot to learn still...

No comments: