THU 8 AM Surfing at LM

My guestimate on the waves were wrong. Drove by the JT this morning and there was hardly no action, but with a lot of slushing type wind waves. On the way, Montara was closed out with 1.5 to 2x OVH waves so that usually means that we can surf in LM. Also JT and Motara were totally fogged in, with a visibility of quarter mile or less.

Upon arrival at LM, there was a Channel 4 van there. I thought they were waiting for me to show up and broadcast my hot surfing as a background picture for the AM weather news. Well, I was wrong. They were shooting some group with used cloths and people dancing around it. I did not know what this was about.

Surf at LM was actually great, it was a nice short board days with rapid but volumus 1x OVH to chest size waves coming in from NW mainly from local wind swells but not too rough yet. Some good people were having quite a good short board style runs with cut backs etc. As for myself, I felt like I was back to a beginner since I could only stand up on a few times. This is because I am now trying to catch larger waves, so essentially I am a larger wave beginner and I can now take off on those waves but because of the power and speed I get, I have hard time standing up on the board. That is the kind of thing with any skill learning. You master one level and you are a beginner at the next level. This is the challenge and fun since there are still so many levels to climb up to in this sport.

I am pleased, the board takes off even on a very steep wave, but the driver on it is not standing up. With a bit more guts and skill, I think I can get there in a few weeks time, but I am much more relaxed in these bigger conditions. I remember first time I was being tumbled in these big white washes, could not breathe and so scared. Now I know it will be over in just a few seconds, just stay calm, relax and stay under.

I have also seen many good surfers who always look very relaxed and gracefully padding out and in and catch many many waves. That is the sign of confidence and help being a lot more efficient in all kinds of conditions. In these types of situations it is only the fear that is holding you back.