Monday, May 26, 2003
JT, Short But Fun Breaks This AM
The NW swells worked nicely into the JT this morning where I surfed. During the medium tide period the "rights" on south end of the beach worked well with occasional OVH waves. Though all were the usual quick closing ones. Later on the morning, I saw some Jetty wedging action making 2 x OVH right breaks some good people are enjoying. Caught bunch of waves especially earlier on. Starting to catch many more quick closing types as I try to get the board into a correct take off angle (like you would do with a boogie board), and that does work was successful in taking off on some unbelievably steep faces, but I am not totally committed to stand on the board quick enough. Feel like I am getting there.