North swell 4.9 ft 8 sec NW 320 °
South swell 2.1 ft 13 sec S 194 °
Wave check this morning at 7:15 at Jetty was all flat with a moderate amount
offshore wind, which blew off whatever has left of already weakened 13 sec S
Swell. Went right over to Linda Mar and checked out there, and the condition
here was a very high offshore wind condition but it was catching the NW
swell which is believed to be windswell.
The condition was extremely stormy and junky but just for a heck of it, I
went in. Going to the beach with my 8'6 board was quite a bit of work as
high gust of wind seemingly going to 10-11 mph pushed my board in all
directions. Just leaving it on the beach flat caused the board to catch the
wind and tumble over. Could have lost another fin if I did not have the Soft
Safeco middle fin on it. The board landed on the soft fin, the fin flexed
and that was it. Going into the water was also difficult as the board
flopped in all directions.
There were two or three other people surfing this morning there. The parking
was empty like at a late evening, and the beach was deserted.
The surfing, however, was actually fun because with an added confidence, I
was able to get "outside" padding out going over and turtling under crashing
waves that were happening every 4 to 5 seconds interval. Once catching the
waves, it was also very fun to negotiate various bumps that forms in front.
It was a lot of work, but the white water break were going further out, so I
had quite a few big gnarly white water rides on my 8'6 board.
Just one hour of surfing was quite enough and it was exciting and
exhilarating!
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