Saturday, May 24, 2003

Friday PM @ 4:00 PM - LM

LM surfing was good Friday afternoon as the local wind swells mixed in from occasional larger swells that is coming from the NNW direction caused some good swells. However the conditions were rough with lots of local windswells causing double and triple ups. Combined with a period of close-outs then a period of calm. Very interesting. These double/triple ups are troublesome because when I catch a wave the previous wave sometimes pop up in front. If they are low enough they are fun to catch into the next, but often I am right behind the back of the wave digging the nose of the board and then a complete stop. Both long boarders and short boarders had a lot of fun as breaks were happening pretty much across the beach with Crespi and Taco bell area having the best up to shoulder to OVH breaks every 5-10 minutes.

I had several fun rides today and yesterday as well. On those double-ups, I discovered a fun extra paddling technique in to catch up with the inside bumps. When I am about to go over an internal bumps when the wave I am riding is fizzled out but another one is about to reform, I sit really low and give a couple of strong strokes still standing. I caught a few longer rides that way. I actually have seen other people do it.

On the way back the JT was also going a bit, probably a knee to chest high, but clean "long board" waves that could be fun to ride on my 8'6.

Again the Pacific Waverider predictions in these type of situations were wrong. I think that Point Rayes is indicating 8 second wind-swell from NNW, NW, it is often surfable out here.

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