Sunday, May 04, 2003

Jetty Today
Surfing at Jetty this afternoon was fun. Took out the 8'6 board and it was a blast with hit to chest set waves coming in almost 20 seconds or so. Found several good breaking spots and breaks were happening further out, so there have been a potential of riding longer than usual. There were mainly two lineups, the usual jetty side group and then the "south of rip rap" group. As usual, I surfed the south side since it is less crowded and also the waves are less steeper.

The onshore wind was blowing a bit hard and also there were a quite a bit of "junky" wind swells coming in. But in these conditions, there are second the even third reforms that happen closer to the shore so it is fun to dodge these wind-swell ripples and zoom left & right to go quite a bit. At times the waves were very steep that made me wish I had shorter board on, but just wait for the next mellow set and then just take off.

In a period of about 2 hours, I have caught about 20 waves today. I am definitely now riding on a lot more waves than most people on the beach. There is one another woman who was catching just as many or more than I did, but the rest of the folks sat "way too out" and did not do much surfing. I got so many waves and paddle backs that by the time I am done, I was so exhausted, and took a good and deep nap for good 1 hour after I came home. I have not been this exhausted since the camp in December where we surfed in the morning, eat lunch, then nap, then go out again!

Clio brought back the fixed board for me today from Santa Cruz, and now I am back with all 3 boards to chose from. It would have been fun to use the 7'6 in these kind of conditions as it is easier to turn.

North swell 2.7 ft 8 sec NW 301 °
South swell 2.8 ft 20 sec SW 205 °

It appears that medium incoming tide seems to work the best at the Jetty in my experience.

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