I am getting better at the wave prediction now that I have incorporated both the swell and atmospheric patterns, so as predicted the Jetty was all flat, but Linda Mar was vibrant with lots of local 8 sec NW wind swells coming in.
When arrived at the beach there was one other surfer Dan. He introduced himself to me and said that he drives all the way from Sacrament a few times a week since he has moved there not long ago.
We tried to get in from around the Crespi drive area, but the break was closed out and could not get out easily, through I have managed to get out. It was too rough and 1.5 overhead explosive crusher (my wife calls it creamy waves). So after 20 minutes of struggle, decided to hit the Boat House right almost at the edge of the beach.
There were some good hip to chest high waves going. After a while another local by the name of "Tuit" and one another guy (no leash) arrived, now I feel like I am making an "in-road" into the LM local surfers. Dan told me that there is a reef at very south end where the waves pop consistently, and it was true, and that's usually where I see a lot of people lined up.
Post a Comment