My buddy from work Nick and I went to LM this morning. The Waverider projection was indicating 6 - 8 ft wave face with a "poor" closed out condition, but once we are in, there were lots of OVH size wave faces breaking further out than usual pretty much across the beach. There were some quiet windows to get out, but once the sets come in there were 4 to 5 sets of those 6-8 ft waves on the north end starting right around the Crespi intersection. There were some very good short boarders zipping right across the face.
I sat in the big lineup for a bit, but after having falling over the face a few times then laundered in on-coming additional sets, I have opted to go to a bit further South and also inside, and surf on a bit smaller size reforms on my 7'6 board. I caught several great ones and one of the few rides I have finally succeeded to get into the face. Since these were mainly left breaks, it even made me easier to go inside the face.
Last year in June wrote in my log. "Also, first time I sat on the board it was so wobbly that I fell off it instantly. It is interesting that after a while this became more natural.
On calmer days, I was gradually able to go out to where people are lined up, and catch a few waves, but I was still having problem catching the waves and as soon as I stand up, the front tip will dig in and tumble forward. Number of times I can stand up per day has increased from zero to one to a couple."
Look this year. I am now consistently be able to catch waves up to head-size, I am no longer wobbly to site on even on the 7'0 board, and pearling much less. So I think that today marks a fairly significant milestone in my surfing experience. It will be interesting to see what it will be in May of 2004.