A Day in My Surf Life Style
Yesterday we got together after a gig (so to speak) with our long friend Jocelyn and Dane, and a question of what my "day" looks like. So I think that's something to write about.
5:30 AM The CD alarm starts. I picked a music that come in gradually like Brian Eno or other "environmental" music stuff. I leave the musing running, but will get up by 5:45 or so.
6:00 AM (not going to write what I do here).
6:05 AM Check the computer to see if there is no customer issue that cropped up over night. If something happens then I must do a Plan B. On this post I will write only about Plan A.
Continue checking the web, make sure that StokeMaster.COM site is up and running then check my StokeConsole for the local condition (note I do not rely on Surfline or any other forecasting web sites.) I make a basic determination of where I will hit at this time.
6:15 AM I get in the shower, wash my hair and then shave.
6:30 AM If I am going to places close by, I just get in the wet suits with the torso dangling. Otherwise I will put on a T-shirts and board shorts.
6:35 AM Fill up the water jug with warm water. Load the car with the rest of the stuff. Board stays in the car every day.
6:40 AM: Leave the hose. I don't eat the breakfast. Continue with wave checking and coordinate morning session with local buddies via cell while I drive.
7:00 AM: Arrive at the beach.
7:10 AM: At the shore, doing a warm up exercise.
7:15 AM: Paddling out
8:45 AM: Catch the last wave of the day.
8:50 AM: Wash the salt off and change to the street clothes.
9:00 AM: Grab Coffee + Donut or a Pastry Off to work. But usually take care of phone calls stuff while I drive.
6:30 PM: Start to wrap up day's work. Write the WavLOG. Check system status and such before leaving the office. Check 511.org traffic report until the RT 92 turns from Red to Yellow.
7:00 PM: If the traffic status on 92 is Yellow then I will go, otherwise I will stay in the office and do more work until the traffic dies down.
7:30 PM: Arrive at home. Rinse the wet stuff, hang them up. I have the second pair of wetsuits and such. I have a washing machine right next to the washing basin, so I usually throw the wet stuff in there and put them through a spin cycle. It really works well.
7:45 PM: Dinner and relaxing evening.... If Gordon Ramsey's Kitchen Nightmare is on I watch it with my wife. Otherwise I am back on computer doing something, or pay bills or do things.
11:00 PM: Pack tomorrow's street clothes in the duffel bag. Then load it in the car. Then go to bed.
Session 7134 Friday Pre-Work
Thursday I did a short board, but Friday morning was a bit smaller so I decided to take the Egg out. I would say, yeah, I like the egg in the morning.
Saturday, No Session
Got a slow start, went to the beach, but having been small, I decided to take an hour nap in the car. Sometimes that's as fun and relaxing as surfing.
Session 7135
A very special local spot, surfed with Cynthia and Stevo. But breaking small, and I had a lot of fun waves.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Session 7133: Finally Speed Building Is Starting to Work!
Finally Speed Building Is Starting to Work!
I think I am finally starting to break through yet another step in “learn how to surf.” And that's the speed building part of the rides.
What do I mean by this?
Well, if you look at people who are “ripping” and who are just surfing, there is one distinct difference, among, of course, a lot of differences.
You see a lot of “regular” surfers who can surf decently. Their rides are reasonably long and their riding styles are not awkward. But there is one thing that distinguish from that level of surfing to the next level of surfing. They are just going along the wave, but not adding much to it, and speed fizzles out and that's it.
Then there are the “next level” surfers out there who can consistently pull-out of the wave with their own power and their rides are more dynamic and quite often longer.
I have been trying to figure that out. Of course, it looks obvious to most people who take up the sport there are visible differences between professional and “regular” surfers. What I have been trying to figure out is exactly what makes these differences, and more importantly how to get there.
I came to the conclusion, and that is summarized in just one single word. The “speed.”
So especially in this past year, I have really been focusing on how in the heck I can learn how to get the speed. Theoretically, I understand it. But as usual with my surfing progress, the theory and the body do not follow more often than not.
The theory part is the extraction of wave power through making turns. Gain the power at the top of the wave, accumulate it there, then release it at the bottom, then go back up again to get more power.
So what's the big deal?
It is a big deal for me because it has been a biggest hurdle for me. Because mainly what happens to most of us is that when you take off, we tend to take a straighter line down, and by the time you get to the bottom there is no power left. Stalling, the wave closes out from the back, then that's the end of the ride.
One of the things to overcome this are the wave selection technique and also a much stronger paddling power to get myself early towards the top part of the wave, and finally much more “aggressive” use of knees and hips to make things happen. Once I can get into that critical part of the wave and if I can consistently flick up then the rest is much easy. With that initial speed and part of the wave I have a lot more choice what the next second will be and where to turn next. The last part is the turn at the bottom. When I can set up for the turn with already going at a good speed, I am starting to really push hard on the board to get up back the wave, or sometimes, make a fast cutback to get back to the section of the wave where it is still building up.
So, now I am really thrilled to polish these skills up to a more consistent one, and to be consistent, I also need to continue to work on wave selection, take-off, and faster flick up.
Surf Reports
A member on StokeFORUM was curious why I made a fool out of myself on Tuesday. It was because I was again only a solo surfer. Everyone went to LM, SC, or OB but there. Sorry, again, I did not have a whole lot of time to go some place else.
Last two sessions were really fun at LM. Small but really ridable stuff with occasional shoulder size sets. The Takayama Egg worked like a charm for me.
The office building move was completed. I have never driven a diesel U-haul truck before. It was noisy, smelly and slow. It was so nice to get back in my own car!
I think I am finally starting to break through yet another step in “learn how to surf.” And that's the speed building part of the rides.
What do I mean by this?
Well, if you look at people who are “ripping” and who are just surfing, there is one distinct difference, among, of course, a lot of differences.
You see a lot of “regular” surfers who can surf decently. Their rides are reasonably long and their riding styles are not awkward. But there is one thing that distinguish from that level of surfing to the next level of surfing. They are just going along the wave, but not adding much to it, and speed fizzles out and that's it.
Then there are the “next level” surfers out there who can consistently pull-out of the wave with their own power and their rides are more dynamic and quite often longer.
I have been trying to figure that out. Of course, it looks obvious to most people who take up the sport there are visible differences between professional and “regular” surfers. What I have been trying to figure out is exactly what makes these differences, and more importantly how to get there.
I came to the conclusion, and that is summarized in just one single word. The “speed.”
So especially in this past year, I have really been focusing on how in the heck I can learn how to get the speed. Theoretically, I understand it. But as usual with my surfing progress, the theory and the body do not follow more often than not.
The theory part is the extraction of wave power through making turns. Gain the power at the top of the wave, accumulate it there, then release it at the bottom, then go back up again to get more power.
So what's the big deal?
It is a big deal for me because it has been a biggest hurdle for me. Because mainly what happens to most of us is that when you take off, we tend to take a straighter line down, and by the time you get to the bottom there is no power left. Stalling, the wave closes out from the back, then that's the end of the ride.
One of the things to overcome this are the wave selection technique and also a much stronger paddling power to get myself early towards the top part of the wave, and finally much more “aggressive” use of knees and hips to make things happen. Once I can get into that critical part of the wave and if I can consistently flick up then the rest is much easy. With that initial speed and part of the wave I have a lot more choice what the next second will be and where to turn next. The last part is the turn at the bottom. When I can set up for the turn with already going at a good speed, I am starting to really push hard on the board to get up back the wave, or sometimes, make a fast cutback to get back to the section of the wave where it is still building up.
So, now I am really thrilled to polish these skills up to a more consistent one, and to be consistent, I also need to continue to work on wave selection, take-off, and faster flick up.
Surf Reports
A member on StokeFORUM was curious why I made a fool out of myself on Tuesday. It was because I was again only a solo surfer. Everyone went to LM, SC, or OB but there. Sorry, again, I did not have a whole lot of time to go some place else.
Last two sessions were really fun at LM. Small but really ridable stuff with occasional shoulder size sets. The Takayama Egg worked like a charm for me.
The office building move was completed. I have never driven a diesel U-haul truck before. It was noisy, smelly and slow. It was so nice to get back in my own car!
Sessions 7131, 7132
This week I have been quite busy due to our office move. Tue, I made a fool out of myself again by surfing by myself at the Jetty. Wed was really fun at LM. This feature will resume may be tomorrow.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Session 7130: Quite A Contrast - A Solo Session
If you happened to see me from the highway, yeah, that was me this morning.
Another day, a local break. I probably was making a fool out of myself. Nevertheless, I was surfing all by myself plus an otter, which is kind of unusual, but it was eating a fish on its tummy.
The condition was not good at all, but I had a limited time so I had to surf the home break.
The waves were braking closer to the shore most of the times and when a bigger one comes it really closed big time!
But I decided to take this situation to an advantage and practiced paddling really hard into the wave then force the board angled. This is one technique that is said to be almost a requirement when you start to catch some of the steeper waves. The idea seems to be that you really paddle hard as I insert myself into a angle of the the direction of the line. Then speed down the line before the wave closes. Really tricky move from both the stand point of getting in the direction and also flicking up.
Another day, a local break. I probably was making a fool out of myself. Nevertheless, I was surfing all by myself plus an otter, which is kind of unusual, but it was eating a fish on its tummy.
The condition was not good at all, but I had a limited time so I had to surf the home break.
The waves were braking closer to the shore most of the times and when a bigger one comes it really closed big time!
But I decided to take this situation to an advantage and practiced paddling really hard into the wave then force the board angled. This is one technique that is said to be almost a requirement when you start to catch some of the steeper waves. The idea seems to be that you really paddle hard as I insert myself into a angle of the the direction of the line. Then speed down the line before the wave closes. Really tricky move from both the stand point of getting in the direction and also flicking up.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Session 7129: Dealing with "Good" Crowds
I must admit! I do not like to surf in Santa Cruz on days like today. This was at the Hook (oh by the way, there is now a prominent sign that says "NO SURF SCHOOLS!", it used to be a graffiti, but now it is an officially city endorsed sign!)
Back to the crowds.
Today it was relatively small.
Waves broke only at the corner... basically.
There were a ton of people out.
Many of them were good too.
= Competition Heats Up!
So under these circumstances, I just cannot get as many waves as I want even if I am capable of catching them. Almost always there is someone already on the wave. They bring in all sort of weapon of mass wave "distractions", including Sponge boards, Liquid Shredders, 10 ft Softops... and will go for full blast when the big set come in and steal all the waves. Pretty standard pattern. I could count with one hand the number of people who were catching all the waves.
To keep the wave counts to a > 0 quantity for me, I had to move constantly, to inside between sets, to outside, and to gamble on to where it is likely the spot that will break for me as the bigger set approached, and avoiding those who are caching so many waves.
My hats off to those who brave there to deal with the crowds. I thought I was getting good at it, but like other aspects of surfing that's totally another skill set I have to master.
If you are one of them, be sure to share with me your secrets!
Back to the crowds.
Today it was relatively small.
Waves broke only at the corner... basically.
There were a ton of people out.
Many of them were good too.
= Competition Heats Up!
So under these circumstances, I just cannot get as many waves as I want even if I am capable of catching them. Almost always there is someone already on the wave. They bring in all sort of weapon of mass wave "distractions", including Sponge boards, Liquid Shredders, 10 ft Softops... and will go for full blast when the big set come in and steal all the waves. Pretty standard pattern. I could count with one hand the number of people who were catching all the waves.
To keep the wave counts to a > 0 quantity for me, I had to move constantly, to inside between sets, to outside, and to gamble on to where it is likely the spot that will break for me as the bigger set approached, and avoiding those who are caching so many waves.
My hats off to those who brave there to deal with the crowds. I thought I was getting good at it, but like other aspects of surfing that's totally another skill set I have to master.
If you are one of them, be sure to share with me your secrets!
Session 7128: Short Boarding and Your Strength
I am continuing to discuss the disadvantage of starting out with a short board. This discussion applies to mainly to late bloomers like myself who would start surfing much later in life; not from being a grom surfer. For groms they are shorter, smaller and their relative strength to the situation is different.
One of the most crucial thing I have realized is that I (probably still do) not have physical strength and agility to handle a short board. Just to get that kind of strength requires either much practice on the water or on the ground. My preference with this is that I am focusing only on surfing so I do not do any other type of conditioning exercise. So this is the reason why I surf a lot, as I see this as my gym membership out in the ocean.
The amount of paddling that is needed to get into the wave successfully requires tremendously more power than on a long board, it is more so because you would want to challenge hollower and faster waves.
Once the board gets in the wave, I need to be up on the board as soon as possible. This is always the case whether the waves are faster or slower. Short boards are not very forgiving.
I am continuing to master above two. Should I have only done long boarding for a couple of years right from the start, I would have a chance to gradually and more consistently build up these strength and agility
Surf Report
Surfed at LM in the morning with Magic 9'0, and it was one of the better condition days. Other spots on the way there looked good, but on weekends I also am social. I am moving up much closer to the nose. May be if I log 4 more hours on the board, I hope to grab the nose with my toes.
Looks like this NW swells are going to be here today too. Go have some fun.
One of the most crucial thing I have realized is that I (probably still do) not have physical strength and agility to handle a short board. Just to get that kind of strength requires either much practice on the water or on the ground. My preference with this is that I am focusing only on surfing so I do not do any other type of conditioning exercise. So this is the reason why I surf a lot, as I see this as my gym membership out in the ocean.
The amount of paddling that is needed to get into the wave successfully requires tremendously more power than on a long board, it is more so because you would want to challenge hollower and faster waves.
Once the board gets in the wave, I need to be up on the board as soon as possible. This is always the case whether the waves are faster or slower. Short boards are not very forgiving.
I am continuing to master above two. Should I have only done long boarding for a couple of years right from the start, I would have a chance to gradually and more consistently build up these strength and agility
Surf Report
Surfed at LM in the morning with Magic 9'0, and it was one of the better condition days. Other spots on the way there looked good, but on weekends I also am social. I am moving up much closer to the nose. May be if I log 4 more hours on the board, I hope to grab the nose with my toes.
Looks like this NW swells are going to be here today too. Go have some fun.
Friday, September 21, 2007
Session 7127: More on Board Stuff + Helmets
More on Board Stuff
We have been talking about single or multiple board stuff for some time, and I was thinking some more about the topic as I surfed today.
One thing I can say for sure is that one would need to get to the point of being able to surf a board; taking off, making turns, and stopping properly on a single board. I have seen, myself included, jumping the gun (pun intended in the context) and get next shorter or narrower or unique shape boards. But looking back, what I should or could have done better is to really master the long boarding first on small waves really well, then moved up.
I would say that for those starting out from the ground zero, do master the long boarding technique. I firmly believe that doing so is the shortest ticket to riding a short board, if that's what you want to do. Plus if you got the long boarding under your belt, you can ride much wider variety of wave sizes and shapes, including these summer mushy waves. Everyone I know who has progressed fast and even faster than me have taken that path. Many people I know who did not take that path basically are still the same way as they were several years ago, and great many of them stopped surfing altogether presumably in frustration. Typically those people would pop up on the forum, ask a question about "What board to get." Then I say "long board", then they go get a short board, go out for 2-3 months on weekends, then quits.
I happen to think that such poser trend is probably not a bad thing for the surf industry. A more new people enter, buy the equipment, and quit and some new ones come in the next year. Real surfers don't buy much, they hang on to old wetsuits and once they got a certain number of boards then they don't add too many boards. It in in fact so much to the point that many "surf" shops in inland shopping malls don't even have to carry surfboards to speak of. Can't or don't believe it? Drive to Walnut Creek next time.
Back to long boarding, this is a part of the reasons why I am going to commit myself to surf long boards as much as possible on weekends when I have a bit more time to haul the big board.
On Helmets (or A Surfer with a Brain)
There was a post on the Google StokeFORUM about helmets. I do testify that it is very helpful. One day I was at a heavier break spot, and this was several years ago. I was on a long board and I wiped out taking a water-fall. I see this happen a lot with other surfers too. As I surfaced, I did not know where the board was. I absolutely could not find it anywhere around. It took me about 3-4 more seconds or looking around, and then there was a really hard "thump" on top of my head. Do you know where my board was? It was up in the sky flying! It then landed smack right on my head. The helmet saved my day.
There was another session that definitely saved my day on a crowed inside 38th. I was paddling out, and this gentleman decided to take off and thought that he could make it. Well, he did not, he hit my board and also knocked me on my head rather hard. He was apologetic all right, and I should not have paddled into where he might be. Almost any accidents are the results on combo of more than neglects happening all at the same time even though technically one is not at fault. For example, I've had some close calls at intersections where other cars have definitely ignored the traffic signal. If I was not watching out for them, yeah, I would have suffered some or a serious level of damage.
These kind of stupid accidents and damages are so rampant in early stages because you as a beginner is playing the negligent (and ignorant) part of the accident, and many many other surfers are quite negligent themselves too. Most other surfers are just as bad as you are or not much better than you.
Eventually though you will realize you are making less dings and less unexpected contacts with surf boards, braking less number of fins etc.
So I would say, until you figure yourself out in the water, more protections the better. Plus, you are probably doing some income generation activities that need to use your brains. That's one investment that you got from your ancestors that has a potential of making tens and thousands of bucks, even millions of bucks in income. I think it is worth protecting.
Today's Surf Report
I took out the Takayama Egg this morning to LM, and as I was being carried out to the north end, I caught some fun waves out there. Then I walked back to front of the parking a caught some inside small stuff, yet a relatively long ride though.
We have been talking about single or multiple board stuff for some time, and I was thinking some more about the topic as I surfed today.
One thing I can say for sure is that one would need to get to the point of being able to surf a board; taking off, making turns, and stopping properly on a single board. I have seen, myself included, jumping the gun (pun intended in the context) and get next shorter or narrower or unique shape boards. But looking back, what I should or could have done better is to really master the long boarding first on small waves really well, then moved up.
I would say that for those starting out from the ground zero, do master the long boarding technique. I firmly believe that doing so is the shortest ticket to riding a short board, if that's what you want to do. Plus if you got the long boarding under your belt, you can ride much wider variety of wave sizes and shapes, including these summer mushy waves. Everyone I know who has progressed fast and even faster than me have taken that path. Many people I know who did not take that path basically are still the same way as they were several years ago, and great many of them stopped surfing altogether presumably in frustration. Typically those people would pop up on the forum, ask a question about "What board to get." Then I say "long board", then they go get a short board, go out for 2-3 months on weekends, then quits.
I happen to think that such poser trend is probably not a bad thing for the surf industry. A more new people enter, buy the equipment, and quit and some new ones come in the next year. Real surfers don't buy much, they hang on to old wetsuits and once they got a certain number of boards then they don't add too many boards. It in in fact so much to the point that many "surf" shops in inland shopping malls don't even have to carry surfboards to speak of. Can't or don't believe it? Drive to Walnut Creek next time.
Back to long boarding, this is a part of the reasons why I am going to commit myself to surf long boards as much as possible on weekends when I have a bit more time to haul the big board.
On Helmets (or A Surfer with a Brain)
I was getting in the water one day and someone shouted "A surfer with a brain!"
There was a post on the Google StokeFORUM about helmets. I do testify that it is very helpful. One day I was at a heavier break spot, and this was several years ago. I was on a long board and I wiped out taking a water-fall. I see this happen a lot with other surfers too. As I surfaced, I did not know where the board was. I absolutely could not find it anywhere around. It took me about 3-4 more seconds or looking around, and then there was a really hard "thump" on top of my head. Do you know where my board was? It was up in the sky flying! It then landed smack right on my head. The helmet saved my day.
There was another session that definitely saved my day on a crowed inside 38th. I was paddling out, and this gentleman decided to take off and thought that he could make it. Well, he did not, he hit my board and also knocked me on my head rather hard. He was apologetic all right, and I should not have paddled into where he might be. Almost any accidents are the results on combo of more than neglects happening all at the same time even though technically one is not at fault. For example, I've had some close calls at intersections where other cars have definitely ignored the traffic signal. If I was not watching out for them, yeah, I would have suffered some or a serious level of damage.
These kind of stupid accidents and damages are so rampant in early stages because you as a beginner is playing the negligent (and ignorant) part of the accident, and many many other surfers are quite negligent themselves too. Most other surfers are just as bad as you are or not much better than you.
Eventually though you will realize you are making less dings and less unexpected contacts with surf boards, braking less number of fins etc.
So I would say, until you figure yourself out in the water, more protections the better. Plus, you are probably doing some income generation activities that need to use your brains. That's one investment that you got from your ancestors that has a potential of making tens and thousands of bucks, even millions of bucks in income. I think it is worth protecting.
Today's Surf Report
I took out the Takayama Egg this morning to LM, and as I was being carried out to the north end, I caught some fun waves out there. Then I walked back to front of the parking a caught some inside small stuff, yet a relatively long ride though.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Single Toy or Multiple Toys Part 2
Yesterday, I wrote mostly about the single toy school of thoughts, but I now feel that I did not elaborate much on multiple toys school of thoughts.
I know a surfer who is very good and has many different surf boards.
According to him, he thinks that trying different boards teaches you a lot more about surfing and surf boards.
I can clearly see his point too.
For example, I am starting to understand the fore-aft weight shift aspect of surfing. On a long board, I can walk towards the front of the board to get the type of speed and glide. When the board starts to stall while the tail is jacking up, it is amazing that by just a few steps towards the front of the board, I can gain or regain so much better speed.
Now when I am back on a short board, I take the same approach, but the only difference is there is no need to walk the deck. I just send more weight forward and the board will do just about the same thing.
On a short board, when I am setting up for a turn, for me, it is more intuitive to set the weight to the back and sort of pivot the board around, then set the bottom or rail or whatever terms you know. Once you learn that the turn setup starts to become more refined. If you are seeing me doing that from the shore, though you may not see the subtle weight shifts. But then I've realized that it is one of the ways to also turn a long board on a dime; just go or walk close to the tail and pivot the whole thing around. That's what I often need to swing the board into the initial trim down the line right (or during) around take-off. Short boarding taught me do that a bit better.
Back to music, as much as I don't like to do this, studying classical piece can be very demanding, but after you do it, say master one of the Chopin's Nocturns. I can apply some of the classical finger moves on Jazz licks. After going through that, it is an awakening discovery experience that there are some chops that it would have been difficult to realize without going through it.
I do agree that sticking and focusing with one aspect of it for a while is an important thing. Every time I switch a board, I do feel like I have lost the touch for a while.
The whole point of this is that there seems to be no one right or wrong way of approaching this, and I think you as an individual need to decide. The whole point of it is to have fun, and for me struggling with learning to how to short board in of itself is a challenge and that equates with my notion of ultimate fun, because I tend to value discoveries along the road than being at the destination.
Also it goes with my career. Because I am more of a "jack of all trades" type, I work more effectively in a small startup situation. As the company grows, though, we need to hire "specialist" people, including those whose job has "always" been an HR, a CEO, or a programmer, or at least they built their career to be specialized. That inevitably happens, and when that happens, it is time for me to fade away, and go start another company! Well, I take it back. I am specialized in being a "jack of all trades!"
I have, however, seen or heard about many surfers who have continuously blamed their equipment for their own surfing problems, keep buying one equipment after another, and not progressing technically. I think that deserves a whole different set of discussion.
I know a surfer who is very good and has many different surf boards.
According to him, he thinks that trying different boards teaches you a lot more about surfing and surf boards.
I can clearly see his point too.
For example, I am starting to understand the fore-aft weight shift aspect of surfing. On a long board, I can walk towards the front of the board to get the type of speed and glide. When the board starts to stall while the tail is jacking up, it is amazing that by just a few steps towards the front of the board, I can gain or regain so much better speed.
Now when I am back on a short board, I take the same approach, but the only difference is there is no need to walk the deck. I just send more weight forward and the board will do just about the same thing.
On a short board, when I am setting up for a turn, for me, it is more intuitive to set the weight to the back and sort of pivot the board around, then set the bottom or rail or whatever terms you know. Once you learn that the turn setup starts to become more refined. If you are seeing me doing that from the shore, though you may not see the subtle weight shifts. But then I've realized that it is one of the ways to also turn a long board on a dime; just go or walk close to the tail and pivot the whole thing around. That's what I often need to swing the board into the initial trim down the line right (or during) around take-off. Short boarding taught me do that a bit better.
Back to music, as much as I don't like to do this, studying classical piece can be very demanding, but after you do it, say master one of the Chopin's Nocturns. I can apply some of the classical finger moves on Jazz licks. After going through that, it is an awakening discovery experience that there are some chops that it would have been difficult to realize without going through it.
I do agree that sticking and focusing with one aspect of it for a while is an important thing. Every time I switch a board, I do feel like I have lost the touch for a while.
The whole point of this is that there seems to be no one right or wrong way of approaching this, and I think you as an individual need to decide. The whole point of it is to have fun, and for me struggling with learning to how to short board in of itself is a challenge and that equates with my notion of ultimate fun, because I tend to value discoveries along the road than being at the destination.
Also it goes with my career. Because I am more of a "jack of all trades" type, I work more effectively in a small startup situation. As the company grows, though, we need to hire "specialist" people, including those whose job has "always" been an HR, a CEO, or a programmer, or at least they built their career to be specialized. That inevitably happens, and when that happens, it is time for me to fade away, and go start another company! Well, I take it back. I am specialized in being a "jack of all trades!"
I have, however, seen or heard about many surfers who have continuously blamed their equipment for their own surfing problems, keep buying one equipment after another, and not progressing technically. I think that deserves a whole different set of discussion.
Monday, September 17, 2007
Session 7126: Single Toy or Multiple Toys
I've met people from two school of thoughts,
For surfing too. There is just a life-long learning to get the mastery of long boarding, or short boarding. If I am switching back and forth between boards, let alone various types of short boards, I totally agree that I won't ever become better than Wingnut, let alone one of the top winner at a local surf contest in Linda Mar (I am getting there though... hehehe).
But wait a minute...
My purpose of playing Jazz is not become Bill Evans, and my purpose of surfing is not become the next Wingnut or Machado.
I am "the rest of the Jazz Musicians" and I am the "rest of the surfers."
What's wrong with that notion? I say, "there is nothing wrong with that."
My main reasons for doing any of them is to just relax, have fun doing something other than I do at work. Frankly I don't care how much I suck at both music and surfing. It is definitely fun to switch between long and short boards. It is definitely fun trying to do Jimmy Smith riff on the B3 patch on my Korg as well as trying some slow ballad with the piano patch. It sucks big time, if you heard it, but I am having a lot of fun.
I am not here to collect bucks from anyone.
You might ask, then why do I compete?
I compete because it is like my annual piano recital from my local piano teacher. It is an opportunity for myself to compare how much progress I am making (against myself), and a bit of pressure and a sense of urgency gives me an incentive to try a bit harder. I sometimes need a bit of a kick in the butt.
So what you should do.
Don't listen to anyone, especially my Jazz and this blog. Listen to your own very heart.
Unless you are going for a pro, in that case, the whole different set of rule applies, stop reading my stuff now, you should just strive to have fun!
Surf Report
Stopped by at K Ave on the way back from work. The waves were not taking much shape, and once I got in, there is the infamous backwash this spot is famous for. I take off and the waves clogged up, splash back at me. It almost got dangerous to the point... would have knocked my teeth or broken my jaw if I kept at it too much.
But why does it matter to you? You should just go out and experience your own fun waves!
- School A: You should become good at only one type of board.
- School B: You should try different kinds of board.
For surfing too. There is just a life-long learning to get the mastery of long boarding, or short boarding. If I am switching back and forth between boards, let alone various types of short boards, I totally agree that I won't ever become better than Wingnut, let alone one of the top winner at a local surf contest in Linda Mar (I am getting there though... hehehe).
But wait a minute...
My purpose of playing Jazz is not become Bill Evans, and my purpose of surfing is not become the next Wingnut or Machado.
I am "the rest of the Jazz Musicians" and I am the "rest of the surfers."
What's wrong with that notion? I say, "there is nothing wrong with that."
My main reasons for doing any of them is to just relax, have fun doing something other than I do at work. Frankly I don't care how much I suck at both music and surfing. It is definitely fun to switch between long and short boards. It is definitely fun trying to do Jimmy Smith riff on the B3 patch on my Korg as well as trying some slow ballad with the piano patch. It sucks big time, if you heard it, but I am having a lot of fun.
I am not here to collect bucks from anyone.
You might ask, then why do I compete?
I compete because it is like my annual piano recital from my local piano teacher. It is an opportunity for myself to compare how much progress I am making (against myself), and a bit of pressure and a sense of urgency gives me an incentive to try a bit harder. I sometimes need a bit of a kick in the butt.
So what you should do.
Don't listen to anyone, especially my Jazz and this blog. Listen to your own very heart.
Unless you are going for a pro, in that case, the whole different set of rule applies, stop reading my stuff now, you should just strive to have fun!
Surf Report
Stopped by at K Ave on the way back from work. The waves were not taking much shape, and once I got in, there is the infamous backwash this spot is famous for. I take off and the waves clogged up, splash back at me. It almost got dangerous to the point... would have knocked my teeth or broken my jaw if I kept at it too much.
But why does it matter to you? You should just go out and experience your own fun waves!
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Session 7125: Live Surfing Network
This morning is a good example of technology and friendship work together towards better surfing for tomorrow.
There were people coming from the south and north county areas for a session, and we agreed to check all the spots. Live reports started to roll in at 8:00 AM, and we've quickly ruled out Pacifica, and another report came in from another buddy further south which was wind blown.
Surf Report
This morning several of StokeMaster members have gone to Montara but it was so hard to get out and it was kind of a mess. I got out twice and then caught white-water back. We've all decided to head to the Jetty which was a good move. I had a lot of fun back in my "home" break where I did not to get to surf much.
There were people coming from the south and north county areas for a session, and we agreed to check all the spots. Live reports started to roll in at 8:00 AM, and we've quickly ruled out Pacifica, and another report came in from another buddy further south which was wind blown.
Surf Report
This morning several of StokeMaster members have gone to Montara but it was so hard to get out and it was kind of a mess. I got out twice and then caught white-water back. We've all decided to head to the Jetty which was a good move. I had a lot of fun back in my "home" break where I did not to get to surf much.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Session 7124: Why Women Are Better Surfers
Why Women Are Better Surfers
Today's Surf Session
Glad went out. It looked flat but once I was in, there were some great fun waves, I can feel that the south was touching.
- I've always admired women surfers of Linda Mar and Santa Cruz. There are more women surfers who look like they are having a lot more fun than men. They tend to be smiling a lot more. Once I was at Linda Mar north end, and it was clearly overhead, a bit on a fearful side. This woman surfer I know for a while, she was just smiling and riding as if it is nothing to it. Another session at Cowells, another women surfer who was just surfing so much better, but looked so effortlessly.
- I know my wife can still can touch the floor with her palms flat. I could not have been able to do that even from when I was 10 year old. They stay limber for a long timer though their lives. Once they are on the waves their movements tend to be smoother, gentler, and fluid. I've seen many women surfers advance much faster than many of men surfers I know. I think Surfing IS the right sport for many women.
- They tend to be having a lot more fun compared to competitive men surfers. On the lineup, if there are more than one women surfer, there usually is some conversation going. In Cowells, I have seen many women propping their heads on the board with their forearms, and just talking while waiting for waves, just kind of like a slumber party on the bed or something!
- One thing I would like ask many of you try not to do. There are quite a few women long board surfers who can catch waves and go, but for whatever the reasons, their arms are precariously all over the places while they are riding. Looks like you are pulling and wrapping in a wool string or something. You all have better center of gravity than men. Just relax your shoulders and upper body, sit tight on hip and knees and balance out things. I could not have figured this out, but this does not happen a whole lot with male surfers (men tend to have more of an Eiffel Tower effects on the board, especially taller men) Correct me if I am wrong.
- To all men surfers: Watch and learn some things from some of the better women surfers on the waves. Don't be so uptight about your sexuality, and you don't have to prove to yourself how good you are. Don't be angry and cranky all the time. On the wave, it should not really matter, would it? The best surfers are the ones who are having fun! Just relax and enjoy the ride and the whole experience and share it with everyone in the ocean!
Today's Surf Session
Glad went out. It looked flat but once I was in, there were some great fun waves, I can feel that the south was touching.
Monday, September 10, 2007
Session 7123: The Importance of Working Within The Limit
When we are encountered with difficulties, we all tend to dismiss the current situation and start to have "wishful thinking."
We happened to been having some computer performance issues. I have a friend who habitually say to this, "On mainframes, we don't have these kind of problems..."
In surfing too. We have a lot of excuses.
Back to my friend's situation. I know there still are a lot of main-frame COBOL shop. If he seriously think that that's the better world than he is in, I would suggest him to go to the COBOL shop. These days, with much less COBOL programmers around, I am sure he can command a high salary. Either that or grasp the reality of being here and now and deal with it.
Same with surfers. If you seriously wish that you had been in Hawaii, then yeah, go there, get a job. If that's the ticket for my ultimate happiness, I would go to Hawaii or Bali or whatever, and get a Hotel IT job.
For me though, the ultimate happiness, that I also need to remind myself, is to work within the limitation and see how far I can take the maximum advantage out of this limitation.
So we get a lot of close outs here. Why not learn how to ride them?
So if it is hard to get out, why not learn how to get out. There are plenty of others whom we can aspire to who'd been outside and catch 2 waves before we can get outside, right?
How about dealing with crowds. I've certainly tried to observe what happens in crowded situations and how to catch more waves than the surfers on your left and right. I now can do better at that than before. In fact, it is sort of gratifying "stealing" lots of waves from those who are still at early stage of learning curve; that I know they are not going to catch waves. It sounds a bit mean, but on the other hands, if they try, I am certain that they will progress to the point that they would be catching a lot more waves, probably in shorter time that it took me to get there.
And surf boards. I happen to have 8 different surf boards. I like each of the boards not because I started to hate one boar and gotten the next. I really enjoy the "taste" of each board. Like guitars and motorcycles, they just "play" differently. But I feel that there are so much of "The board does not give me the ride I want." attitude around.
I am hoping that each and every one of you will catch yourself saying "I hate this.", "It is better with some thing or somewhere else." Instead, try to accept what you got, what your situation is, then make the best out of it, innovate and also point out to me any time in the future I am starting to fall in that trap.
People have created a master price novel without just a typewriter, and some have created a fine art with just charcoal on paper.
Let's get on to it!
Surf Report
Surfing could have been more fun this morning at a local hollow spot. I wish that the tide was a bit low and I wish I had a more floaty board, and I am going to regret the rest of my life that I wish I had a job that I could go out a bit later when the tide was higher, and that I had a carbon fibre hollow quad fish so that I could have caught more waves....
We happened to been having some computer performance issues. I have a friend who habitually say to this, "On mainframes, we don't have these kind of problems..."
In surfing too. We have a lot of excuses.
- Wish we were in
- Wish I had
board. - Wish the tide or wind is
- Wish I have started
years ago. - Wish I was younger.
- Wish I was born as a female surfer.
- Wish I was born as a male surfer.
- Wish I was a Shark.
Back to my friend's situation. I know there still are a lot of main-frame COBOL shop. If he seriously think that that's the better world than he is in, I would suggest him to go to the COBOL shop. These days, with much less COBOL programmers around, I am sure he can command a high salary. Either that or grasp the reality of being here and now and deal with it.
Same with surfers. If you seriously wish that you had been in Hawaii, then yeah, go there, get a job. If that's the ticket for my ultimate happiness, I would go to Hawaii or Bali or whatever, and get a Hotel IT job.
For me though, the ultimate happiness, that I also need to remind myself, is to work within the limitation and see how far I can take the maximum advantage out of this limitation.
So we get a lot of close outs here. Why not learn how to ride them?
So if it is hard to get out, why not learn how to get out. There are plenty of others whom we can aspire to who'd been outside and catch 2 waves before we can get outside, right?
How about dealing with crowds. I've certainly tried to observe what happens in crowded situations and how to catch more waves than the surfers on your left and right. I now can do better at that than before. In fact, it is sort of gratifying "stealing" lots of waves from those who are still at early stage of learning curve; that I know they are not going to catch waves. It sounds a bit mean, but on the other hands, if they try, I am certain that they will progress to the point that they would be catching a lot more waves, probably in shorter time that it took me to get there.
And surf boards. I happen to have 8 different surf boards. I like each of the boards not because I started to hate one boar and gotten the next. I really enjoy the "taste" of each board. Like guitars and motorcycles, they just "play" differently. But I feel that there are so much of "The board does not give me the ride I want." attitude around.
I am hoping that each and every one of you will catch yourself saying "I hate this.", "It is better with some thing or somewhere else." Instead, try to accept what you got, what your situation is, then make the best out of it, innovate and also point out to me any time in the future I am starting to fall in that trap.
People have created a master price novel without just a typewriter, and some have created a fine art with just charcoal on paper.
Let's get on to it!
Surf Report
Surfing could have been more fun this morning at a local hollow spot. I wish that the tide was a bit low and I wish I had a more floaty board, and I am going to regret the rest of my life that I wish I had a job that I could go out a bit later when the tide was higher, and that I had a carbon fibre hollow quad fish so that I could have caught more waves....
Saturday, September 08, 2007
Sesssion 7122, How Local Female and Male Surfers Do Sessions
This morning I have finally figured out the long unsolved mystery.
The mystery is about local women surfers. When it comes to seeing them, it is often feast or famine. There are lots of them in a line up or none of them.
I did figure this out though.
I was the first to arrive at the beach, suiting up and this local female surfer showed up. We then went in . But after that one by one over the course of the session more and more local women surfers showed up and that ended up to be about 6. That's usually a lot in local standards.
I now know that women surfers have a strong network. They call each other and they also call others. They are organized and mobilized so when they come to surf, they are going to be all there.
They are having a lot of fun talking on the water, in and out of the beach. It just brighten up this local beach, which is usually barren, drab, foggy and often intimidating with big close out waves. (This morning was sunny.)
In a nutshell, our local female surfers are like me dropping a piece of chocloate on the ground. Before you know there are lots of them.
Then I thought about local male surfers.
Male surfers have networks too, but it tends to be smaller. It is more like a small pack of wolves or something. In some ways, these packs move from one place to another in hunt of waves, and if we run into other packs in the process, we'd make sure that we allow enough room so that we don't be on the same territory. Male surfers tend to be more friendly out of the water, but once in the water it can get tense and territorial to some extent.
Surf Progress Report
It was mostly closed out this morning with occasional ridable shoulder, very very typical of our local beach break situation.
Lately my area of focus are the following;
The mystery is about local women surfers. When it comes to seeing them, it is often feast or famine. There are lots of them in a line up or none of them.
I did figure this out though.
I was the first to arrive at the beach, suiting up and this local female surfer showed up. We then went in . But after that one by one over the course of the session more and more local women surfers showed up and that ended up to be about 6. That's usually a lot in local standards.
I now know that women surfers have a strong network. They call each other and they also call others. They are organized and mobilized so when they come to surf, they are going to be all there.
They are having a lot of fun talking on the water, in and out of the beach. It just brighten up this local beach, which is usually barren, drab, foggy and often intimidating with big close out waves. (This morning was sunny.)
In a nutshell, our local female surfers are like me dropping a piece of chocloate on the ground. Before you know there are lots of them.
Then I thought about local male surfers.
Male surfers have networks too, but it tends to be smaller. It is more like a small pack of wolves or something. In some ways, these packs move from one place to another in hunt of waves, and if we run into other packs in the process, we'd make sure that we allow enough room so that we don't be on the same territory. Male surfers tend to be more friendly out of the water, but once in the water it can get tense and territorial to some extent.
Surf Progress Report
It was mostly closed out this morning with occasional ridable shoulder, very very typical of our local beach break situation.
Lately my area of focus are the following;
- Work on finding out the ridable spot(s), lining up properly, and if necessary paddle there as the set comes in. This is a very important competition skill set. It requires keen eyes, sense, and observing the previous break pattern during the session.
- Continue to work on take-offs. I am continuing to get incremental improvement in this area into more steeper, faster, and into hollower situations. This requires a lot of commitment, overcoming the fears, and a lot more paddling spurt power.
- Speed = Longer Ride at All Conditions! More aggressive board interactions for speed; applying more body weight effectively through turns, and working on improved line selection and composition for more consistent power.
Friday, September 07, 2007
Session 7121 - Surfing Lifesyle
More often than not, the idea of quitting all these web related stuff, just forget about the people, the friends, and everything, and just go surf whenever I feel like it, and not even write about it. Definitely it is an easy way out. I sometimes feel like this is not what I signed up for.
It has been more of a hard paddle out than getting fun rides, it really mirrors my current state of surfing too.
But there always are other compelling reasons not to stop.
In a nutshell, it is really not about the ocean but all of the friends that I came to know each other, who have helped build the surfing life style for me.
You might wonder even then why would that be important?
May be I can be very selfish to say this, but I am sort of relived that I am not all alone in this endevour of the sport. Whatever the reasons, people have identified themselves with what we do here. Surely this is not SurfPulse or Surfline. But somehow, I am a bit gratified to know that we have started a group on this corner of the universe and we are all tied each other with the sport of surfing in its core.
You are everywhere.
A few yeas back I came down with Shingles after coming back from Japan after seeing my dying father. I had not been that ill for many years. Finally almost I got through it, I went surfing, and someone stopped me to tell me that he has been folloing my blog and told me how I was doing OK.
Yesterday at the Jetty...
You know Hwy 1 just run by the ocean (in fact it is only but a few spot where Hwy 1 is right against the surf spot. The next spot is 360 miles south at Rincon!
There were about 4 cars that came by hoking at me - ex co-workers, local surfers, surf shop owner...
So I will continue to go with the "flow" of things. You all help us continue to build this. As we are all familiar we are dealing with a fluid world in and out of the ocean. Evey moment changes and different. I like that notion.
--
This morning, I was a lone surfer. I am still really puzzled as to where people go. There were some fun good waves out where I was. The egg worked really nice.
It has been more of a hard paddle out than getting fun rides, it really mirrors my current state of surfing too.
But there always are other compelling reasons not to stop.
In a nutshell, it is really not about the ocean but all of the friends that I came to know each other, who have helped build the surfing life style for me.
You might wonder even then why would that be important?
May be I can be very selfish to say this, but I am sort of relived that I am not all alone in this endevour of the sport. Whatever the reasons, people have identified themselves with what we do here. Surely this is not SurfPulse or Surfline. But somehow, I am a bit gratified to know that we have started a group on this corner of the universe and we are all tied each other with the sport of surfing in its core.
You are everywhere.
A few yeas back I came down with Shingles after coming back from Japan after seeing my dying father. I had not been that ill for many years. Finally almost I got through it, I went surfing, and someone stopped me to tell me that he has been folloing my blog and told me how I was doing OK.
Yesterday at the Jetty...
You know Hwy 1 just run by the ocean (in fact it is only but a few spot where Hwy 1 is right against the surf spot. The next spot is 360 miles south at Rincon!
There were about 4 cars that came by hoking at me - ex co-workers, local surfers, surf shop owner...
So I will continue to go with the "flow" of things. You all help us continue to build this. As we are all familiar we are dealing with a fluid world in and out of the ocean. Evey moment changes and different. I like that notion.
--
This morning, I was a lone surfer. I am still really puzzled as to where people go. There were some fun good waves out where I was. The egg worked really nice.
Wednesday, September 05, 2007
Session 7119-7120: Donald Takayama Egg 7.2 (Surftech) Model Riding Impressions
But... Why The Egg?
We had a rather severe flat spell this summer. In the past few years, as I recall, there usually would be local NW wind swells or occasional south to fill in the Jetty in the summer. The Jetty was really awfully flat for several months stright, not to mention other spots. I really feel bad for the El Granada groms who would normally hang around there during the summer break.
There were many days that I felt I wish I had a long board stashed in my car, but as we all know keeping a long board in a car is usually difficult as it could occupy the whole passenger side. It is also risky being strapped outside all day, especially if you are like myself, I surf, go to work and need to park the car while I work. So I was thinking about getting a "bigger" short board for some time.
A several weeks ago, on a smaller day, we went out at our infamous "hollower spot" with me on the Stretch 6'5 and my buddy with his Haut 7'6 "Egg" board. He insisted that I borrow it. I reluctantly did and the moment I switched I started to catch a lot more waves. A few weeks later another buddy of mine brought a 7'6 Takayama Egg, and again I had a real blast riding that thing at the same spot. These two incidents re-kindled my interest in seriously acquiring a "fun" board for those small days I could use a long board, but not quite willing to take up the entire half of my car.
Between the two Eggs, I liked the Takayama Egg, because it came in SurfTech and so it was readily available from a stock and it is durable that it will withstand "the board stays in my car all year mode." The new Surftech models also feature closed cell EPS water proof core that's really an advancement over old foams, including their own. Now I can ding the board and continue to surf. This would be great for my next Mexico or CR trip when there usually will get a transit ding or two.
As I walked into HMB Board Shop, Dalyn already had a 7'2 model waiting for me. Because I personally like single fins on long boards, I have equipped it with a relatively big (I think it is 7 inch) center fin. It is a thruster configuration board with a long board center fin box.
How Does It Ride? For Me, That Is
Disclaimer: I am not an expert surfer. Surf board choices are not much different from food preferences you will feel it quite differently. Don't believe any words I say.
Next day we took the board to Pescadero when it was going at hip high. My buddy brought his 10'0 Robert August Wingnut model. But I think I was able to surf the same waves with much more agility. When I switched the board, I felt like I was driving the "father's Olds", everything went slower and smoother. It is not bad, there definitely is quite a bit of fun on that mode too.
Also on this past Monday on a rather messy day, I out-surfed two of my long board buddys from the same outside lineup, and guess what, both of them happened to be using my boards, one buddy on DT4 and another on Walden Magic!
The Egg board is definitely much easier to catch waves than any of my short boards, still, even on late starts, I think that it is attributed to a more "pinny" tail design; it can respond to more demanding take off situations. Because I am still a relatively weak surfer, I tend to do late starts and let the wave push me than going from the outside at full throttle.
As I mentioned, I do also own Takayama DT4 and it really feels like the mini-version of the same board. I always felt that DT4 is like a long board that can be ridden like a short board, and on this Egg, it seems to keep the feel of the long board, but without much sacrifice in agility. On small waves, I would say that you can get more speed out of it without pumping down the board, and even if you cross step or nose ride it, it won't look or feel out of place. The rails are thinner and you can make some very crisp turns, but when you are on the surface of the wave, it goes on a nice solid trim like any good long boards or a fish would. I can see that a surfer can subscribe to Takayama style's boards and grow their surfing skills around his design philosophy.
Another big plus for me is that I can duck dive this board, quite easily, I might add.
Egg Might Be Good For You and Your Health
If I am only allowed to have one board, this is the board I will have. I have been through several "fun" boards, but this is the best I have been on so far. I think I can highly recommend it to anyone who is either transitioning from long boards or want to keep something a bit shorter but without losing the long board feel, and take it on a long surf trip.
Like most high performance boards, I still would not recommend this as your first board. It is a short-board after all, and if you cannot ride a long board skilfully, I would still suggest you do that first.
We had a rather severe flat spell this summer. In the past few years, as I recall, there usually would be local NW wind swells or occasional south to fill in the Jetty in the summer. The Jetty was really awfully flat for several months stright, not to mention other spots. I really feel bad for the El Granada groms who would normally hang around there during the summer break.
There were many days that I felt I wish I had a long board stashed in my car, but as we all know keeping a long board in a car is usually difficult as it could occupy the whole passenger side. It is also risky being strapped outside all day, especially if you are like myself, I surf, go to work and need to park the car while I work. So I was thinking about getting a "bigger" short board for some time.
A several weeks ago, on a smaller day, we went out at our infamous "hollower spot" with me on the Stretch 6'5 and my buddy with his Haut 7'6 "Egg" board. He insisted that I borrow it. I reluctantly did and the moment I switched I started to catch a lot more waves. A few weeks later another buddy of mine brought a 7'6 Takayama Egg, and again I had a real blast riding that thing at the same spot. These two incidents re-kindled my interest in seriously acquiring a "fun" board for those small days I could use a long board, but not quite willing to take up the entire half of my car.
Between the two Eggs, I liked the Takayama Egg, because it came in SurfTech and so it was readily available from a stock and it is durable that it will withstand "the board stays in my car all year mode." The new Surftech models also feature closed cell EPS water proof core that's really an advancement over old foams, including their own. Now I can ding the board and continue to surf. This would be great for my next Mexico or CR trip when there usually will get a transit ding or two.
As I walked into HMB Board Shop, Dalyn already had a 7'2 model waiting for me. Because I personally like single fins on long boards, I have equipped it with a relatively big (I think it is 7 inch) center fin. It is a thruster configuration board with a long board center fin box.
How Does It Ride? For Me, That Is
Disclaimer: I am not an expert surfer. Surf board choices are not much different from food preferences you will feel it quite differently. Don't believe any words I say.
Next day we took the board to Pescadero when it was going at hip high. My buddy brought his 10'0 Robert August Wingnut model. But I think I was able to surf the same waves with much more agility. When I switched the board, I felt like I was driving the "father's Olds", everything went slower and smoother. It is not bad, there definitely is quite a bit of fun on that mode too.
Also on this past Monday on a rather messy day, I out-surfed two of my long board buddys from the same outside lineup, and guess what, both of them happened to be using my boards, one buddy on DT4 and another on Walden Magic!
The Egg board is definitely much easier to catch waves than any of my short boards, still, even on late starts, I think that it is attributed to a more "pinny" tail design; it can respond to more demanding take off situations. Because I am still a relatively weak surfer, I tend to do late starts and let the wave push me than going from the outside at full throttle.
As I mentioned, I do also own Takayama DT4 and it really feels like the mini-version of the same board. I always felt that DT4 is like a long board that can be ridden like a short board, and on this Egg, it seems to keep the feel of the long board, but without much sacrifice in agility. On small waves, I would say that you can get more speed out of it without pumping down the board, and even if you cross step or nose ride it, it won't look or feel out of place. The rails are thinner and you can make some very crisp turns, but when you are on the surface of the wave, it goes on a nice solid trim like any good long boards or a fish would. I can see that a surfer can subscribe to Takayama style's boards and grow their surfing skills around his design philosophy.
Another big plus for me is that I can duck dive this board, quite easily, I might add.
Egg Might Be Good For You and Your Health
If I am only allowed to have one board, this is the board I will have. I have been through several "fun" boards, but this is the best I have been on so far. I think I can highly recommend it to anyone who is either transitioning from long boards or want to keep something a bit shorter but without losing the long board feel, and take it on a long surf trip.
Like most high performance boards, I still would not recommend this as your first board. It is a short-board after all, and if you cannot ride a long board skilfully, I would still suggest you do that first.
Monday, September 03, 2007
Session 7117-7118: Complexity Of Setting Up A Session With Other Surfers
Complexity Of Setting Up A Session With Other Surfers
Before I set out to write this session log, I am not complaining, but I am describing the situations that I have observed over the past few years.
Through my surfing I have had various challenges setting up sessions with buddies. I now came to see some basic pattern in surf buddies, myself included, and the combo of those factors make it really difficult for all of us to be surfing at the same spot at the same time.
Everyone has a little element of those characteristics, like a virtual mixing board where the knobs and sliders are adjusted all differently.
Time Bound Buddies
This happens a lot with people with children. It appears that the children controls their surf plan. Can't blame you, but nevertheless, we both need to plan carefully around plans.
From time to time, even people without children fall into this category as their "better half" appears to be the controlling factor in schedule.
I too am time constrained to the extent that the session must be early in the morning before I can sneak in to the office or the morning meeting.
The challenge with surfing with them is that we can never meet up at the right time and right place. You know how timing is very important in surfing.
Location Bound Buddies
OK... I used to belong to this class of surfers.
I see a lot of this, a lot of people only want to surf Linda Mar and basically only there even if we tell them that other spots are firing at better quality. They also tend to paddle out exactly right in the smack of where most people are and take off in all at the same time. And if they do their idea of surfing other location is Cowells or Inside 38th and do exactly the same... paddle to the most crowded spot and take off when others are taking off. They tend not to surf nowhere in between.
The challenge surfing with them is that I often have to surf their breaks with crowds, and I often do not want to.
Quality Control Freak Buddies
There are some people I know who would only go out when the condition is in a specific way or must pick the best out of the worst. They tend to choose bigger and hollower condition that hold the shape. They tend to be almost totally opposite of the location bound surfers; they are everywhere on the coast. We all know their cars, and we tend to go where we find their cars are parked, or we also know that we've missed good waves when they are going past the other direction on the highway.
Also these are the people whom I ran into them at parking lot a lot, but not much in the water. They are just checking and usually on the way to another spot that they know could be better. Once they leave the lot, us "regulars" on the coast will always talk about, if, how, when, and what they do to fund their surfing, let alone other things in life. Nevertheless, they are here year after year, and they are just way above and beyond technically from most of us.
Challenge setting up a session with them is that we can't.
Quality Insecure Buddies
I will never become this type.
Getting in the water "anyway" is very important to me.
I have seen a few people in this category, and I have hardly ever seen them surf. They only go out locally if the condition is super great, which of course we all know that does not happen very often.
Challenge setting up a session with them is that they won't go out even if they come. That makes me feel really bad about dragging them out to "my" break.
Skill Bound Buddies
This is, actually where I falls under presently.
This is a variation of Quality Bound buddies. We tend to choose waves that we can only handle, but we are more or less more at the mercy of the nature. We tend to like small, mushy, safe conditions without wind and . As a result this tends to limit the locations where we can surf, and can't hang around with large crowd because either we get in the way or they get in our way.
Challenge setting up a session with them is that we vary in skill set and preferences that we can never agree where to pick, by the time we did all the surf checks and discussed about it the session is over. You know we are all in the sensitive generation, never rock the boat, and never hurt other peoples' feelings...
Geek Buddies
I too am VERY guilty of being in this category of surfers.
These days especially in affluent area like NorCAL or OC, you find them everywhere. There are some surfers that own very expensive latest brand new pro gear, from head to toe, surf boards for all occasions, hot fins, nose guards, tail guards, wax removing system or any other accessories that can be found at surf shops and online, wear just about everything that can be worn, for helmet, hood, hot skins underneath, speedo, webbed gloves to the latest model booties....
But their surfing is not just up to par. The surfer next to him/her with a 5 year old dinged up board out-paddles, knocks their socks off... catching 10 times more waves. Because of that and all new shiny equipment, they stick out like a sore thumb in any lineup.
Advice to myself. The water is warm in the summer even in NorCAL, take my hood and gloves off, get refreshed with a bit chilly but wake-up water, and use solid equipment without much gimmicks like funny (t/r)ails and funny fin configs. Approach the realm of a surfing Yoda. People used to rip on their redwood planks!
There is no challenge setting up a session with them to the extent they go anywhere, any place and any time, even the condition is better elsewhere. They see the ocean, they suit up (fully of course) and go in and don't catch any wave.
I am starting to get it though, so this season, I have shed my helmet, gloves, hood and if I am in So Cal, wet suits and booties are out too. Now I can really blend in.
Before I set out to write this session log, I am not complaining, but I am describing the situations that I have observed over the past few years.
Through my surfing I have had various challenges setting up sessions with buddies. I now came to see some basic pattern in surf buddies, myself included, and the combo of those factors make it really difficult for all of us to be surfing at the same spot at the same time.
Everyone has a little element of those characteristics, like a virtual mixing board where the knobs and sliders are adjusted all differently.
Time Bound Buddies
This happens a lot with people with children. It appears that the children controls their surf plan. Can't blame you, but nevertheless, we both need to plan carefully around plans.
From time to time, even people without children fall into this category as their "better half" appears to be the controlling factor in schedule.
I too am time constrained to the extent that the session must be early in the morning before I can sneak in to the office or the morning meeting.
The challenge with surfing with them is that we can never meet up at the right time and right place. You know how timing is very important in surfing.
Location Bound Buddies
OK... I used to belong to this class of surfers.
I see a lot of this, a lot of people only want to surf Linda Mar and basically only there even if we tell them that other spots are firing at better quality. They also tend to paddle out exactly right in the smack of where most people are and take off in all at the same time. And if they do their idea of surfing other location is Cowells or Inside 38th and do exactly the same... paddle to the most crowded spot and take off when others are taking off. They tend not to surf nowhere in between.
The challenge surfing with them is that I often have to surf their breaks with crowds, and I often do not want to.
Quality Control Freak Buddies
There are some people I know who would only go out when the condition is in a specific way or must pick the best out of the worst. They tend to choose bigger and hollower condition that hold the shape. They tend to be almost totally opposite of the location bound surfers; they are everywhere on the coast. We all know their cars, and we tend to go where we find their cars are parked, or we also know that we've missed good waves when they are going past the other direction on the highway.
Also these are the people whom I ran into them at parking lot a lot, but not much in the water. They are just checking and usually on the way to another spot that they know could be better. Once they leave the lot, us "regulars" on the coast will always talk about, if, how, when, and what they do to fund their surfing, let alone other things in life. Nevertheless, they are here year after year, and they are just way above and beyond technically from most of us.
Challenge setting up a session with them is that we can't.
Quality Insecure Buddies
I will never become this type.
Getting in the water "anyway" is very important to me.
I have seen a few people in this category, and I have hardly ever seen them surf. They only go out locally if the condition is super great, which of course we all know that does not happen very often.
Challenge setting up a session with them is that they won't go out even if they come. That makes me feel really bad about dragging them out to "my" break.
Skill Bound Buddies
This is, actually where I falls under presently.
This is a variation of Quality Bound buddies. We tend to choose waves that we can only handle, but we are more or less more at the mercy of the nature. We tend to like small, mushy, safe conditions without wind and . As a result this tends to limit the locations where we can surf, and can't hang around with large crowd because either we get in the way or they get in our way.
Challenge setting up a session with them is that we vary in skill set and preferences that we can never agree where to pick, by the time we did all the surf checks and discussed about it the session is over. You know we are all in the sensitive generation, never rock the boat, and never hurt other peoples' feelings...
Geek Buddies
I too am VERY guilty of being in this category of surfers.
These days especially in affluent area like NorCAL or OC, you find them everywhere. There are some surfers that own very expensive latest brand new pro gear, from head to toe, surf boards for all occasions, hot fins, nose guards, tail guards, wax removing system or any other accessories that can be found at surf shops and online, wear just about everything that can be worn, for helmet, hood, hot skins underneath, speedo, webbed gloves to the latest model booties....
But their surfing is not just up to par. The surfer next to him/her with a 5 year old dinged up board out-paddles, knocks their socks off... catching 10 times more waves. Because of that and all new shiny equipment, they stick out like a sore thumb in any lineup.
Advice to myself. The water is warm in the summer even in NorCAL, take my hood and gloves off, get refreshed with a bit chilly but wake-up water, and use solid equipment without much gimmicks like funny (t/r)ails and funny fin configs. Approach the realm of a surfing Yoda. People used to rip on their redwood planks!
There is no challenge setting up a session with them to the extent they go anywhere, any place and any time, even the condition is better elsewhere. They see the ocean, they suit up (fully of course) and go in and don't catch any wave.
I am starting to get it though, so this season, I have shed my helmet, gloves, hood and if I am in So Cal, wet suits and booties are out too. Now I can really blend in.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Session 7115.5 and 7116, Slow Surf Day + More Stupid Competition Stories
Yesterday, I was intending to surf after work. But that competition and the super "day after" session completely exhausted me. I was almost nodding while driving to the beach. When I got to the beach it was shrouded with thick fog, and the waves looked really small as far as I could see from the cliff.
So I reclined my seat and decided to take a nap. Not much later, I heard a familiar local buddy's voice, "Hay Mano!" I was awoken, and sure enough it was my local buddy Mr. Z. And we B.S'd for a while. He asked me about getting a fish or some board of that nature, and I ended up getting my 7'2 Takayama Egg board, and explained to him about how much I started to like the board, etc. etc. It is kind of a lazy summer late afternoon thing when the waves are bad, but we still are engaged in a type of surfing activity... This is a kind of moment I would remember for a while, it is really a part of a surfing life experience.
This morning, I checked my own web site for the condition and the S swells are starting to hit, so I headed back to the same spot. Jetty wasn't happening yet.
Sure enough there were 4-5 surfers out already at the south end of the beach. I decided to join but the tide was really too low, and we all know that it is a bad news when the waves are running backwards towards ocean, and you can actually paddle into paddle out on a few of these backwards waves (back washes). But they really are bad news because when you do catch an incoming wave to ride, these would collide against the wave you are riding, and at best you can practice some floaters, but in most cases, you'd be reflected back on the colliding splash.
So I did not stay too long, especially when there was also strange current thing going on making me hard to stay where I wanted to be. It is a spooky feeling when you are all by yourself (other surfers left) and you are clearly being carried out to the ocean.
So I caught the white water and ridden it to the shore (one would never paddle to the shore!).
Anyhow, another local buddy shows up when I was changing, and I told her that I was a bit bummed about the stupid situation at the surf competition this past weekend, and she told me her stupid surf competition story.
On one competition she was in, she was so nervous that she picked up someone else's board and started to paddle out. Realizing this, she paddled back and got her own board.
Also, I almost forgot to tell you that a few years back our own surfing mama, Ren did the same stupid thing as I did, which was not realizing she had advanced, and forfeited the whole heat.
We all get so nervous about competitions, that we really start to show the stupid side of ourselves, which I think in the end, is kind of fun carrying on the surfing lifestyle, share these stories, and we all laugh about it. I am really enjoying, now that I feel being more a part of it.
So I reclined my seat and decided to take a nap. Not much later, I heard a familiar local buddy's voice, "Hay Mano!" I was awoken, and sure enough it was my local buddy Mr. Z. And we B.S'd for a while. He asked me about getting a fish or some board of that nature, and I ended up getting my 7'2 Takayama Egg board, and explained to him about how much I started to like the board, etc. etc. It is kind of a lazy summer late afternoon thing when the waves are bad, but we still are engaged in a type of surfing activity... This is a kind of moment I would remember for a while, it is really a part of a surfing life experience.
This morning, I checked my own web site for the condition and the S swells are starting to hit, so I headed back to the same spot. Jetty wasn't happening yet.
Sure enough there were 4-5 surfers out already at the south end of the beach. I decided to join but the tide was really too low, and we all know that it is a bad news when the waves are running backwards towards ocean, and you can actually paddle into paddle out on a few of these backwards waves (back washes). But they really are bad news because when you do catch an incoming wave to ride, these would collide against the wave you are riding, and at best you can practice some floaters, but in most cases, you'd be reflected back on the colliding splash.
So I did not stay too long, especially when there was also strange current thing going on making me hard to stay where I wanted to be. It is a spooky feeling when you are all by yourself (other surfers left) and you are clearly being carried out to the ocean.
So I caught the white water and ridden it to the shore (one would never paddle to the shore!).
Anyhow, another local buddy shows up when I was changing, and I told her that I was a bit bummed about the stupid situation at the surf competition this past weekend, and she told me her stupid surf competition story.
On one competition she was in, she was so nervous that she picked up someone else's board and started to paddle out. Realizing this, she paddled back and got her own board.
Also, I almost forgot to tell you that a few years back our own surfing mama, Ren did the same stupid thing as I did, which was not realizing she had advanced, and forfeited the whole heat.
We all get so nervous about competitions, that we really start to show the stupid side of ourselves, which I think in the end, is kind of fun carrying on the surfing lifestyle, share these stories, and we all laugh about it. I am really enjoying, now that I feel being more a part of it.
Monday, August 27, 2007
Session 7115: Same Place, Day Later...
A day later, the same place, about the same time. Surfing Mama, Ren, my neighbor buddy and we headed back out to Linda Mar beach around 9.
We all had a blast, long long rides, some fun cutbacks, stepping back and forth... Gosh I wish I had all this yesterday.
I must say, without the pressure of competing, I had much easier time, more fun and more actions on the same long board I used. This goes to say that the state of the mind is very much important. That's definitely be something I will be working on upcoming sessions.
We all had a blast, long long rides, some fun cutbacks, stepping back and forth... Gosh I wish I had all this yesterday.
I must say, without the pressure of competing, I had much easier time, more fun and more actions on the same long board I used. This goes to say that the state of the mind is very much important. That's definitely be something I will be working on upcoming sessions.
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Session 7114: KKC Contest, Major FU This Time
This is starting to be my annual event. Because I am closely affiliated with the San Mateo Chapter of Surfrider Foundation, I feel strongly about supporting other organizations that support the chapter. Local competitions are one of those venues where organizers donate proceeds. I also fill in the exec committee people for publicity stuff while in these competitions.
For good or bad, I am, right now, the only person out of the core group of the chapter to actually surf in these local competitions. I know some people have very differing opinions on surf competitions, but all of these ones I am allowed to enter are mainly to promote local environmentalism and awareness through surfing. I think that's a worthy cause, and I should help out as much as I can.
As for competition aspect of it, at my level of surfing, it is not about competing with other people, but it is a part of my own mental and physical training, and having some goal is always very helpful.
This competition was a humbling experience because I lost out and I did a very stupid move especially having came to 2nd place in a division last year on the same contest.
This past week, I have surfed at Linda Mar every day, both on short and long boards, and I felt confident that I could provide some decent ride at the contest. The condition was similar to yesterday and yesterday I had some of my better long boarding sessions.
The shortboard heat was more difficult, partly because I did use a real short board, and I am not totally master at it, and other people were riding basically fun boards. I had a fun board so I should have used it. And in 30 min I had to be in the longboard heat.
Now, even the worse and incredibly stupid story to share.
After finished the long board heat, I have assumed that I did not advance to the next heat. There were 12 people (or more) on the division, that included local surf instructor, most people "surfing for 30+ years 3 time/per week or more" etc etc.
I got out and tried to catch the wave and a big close out came, and my leg got a cramp for not relaxing enough while being tumbled. The jersey almost came off, so I lost quite a bit of time put myself back together. So after all I did not have much good time on the heat.
So having this being the last heat for me, the whole weight got off my shoulder. Now I am a free surfer again until next summer!
My friend Ren and we free surfed for another while. That was great, it was back to normal. It was nice and sunny, and waves were better at the north end than what I had to endure.
By this time, I was very tired and I was ready to leave for a while, take a nap then come back with the banquet event in the evening (my hats off to those actually holds the competition, it is a long day starting from 6 am to 11 pm).
Ren was also wanting to leave so she helped me carry the stuff to the car, but she said on the way out, "Don't you want to check the result?" I said to her "I know the result, there is no need to check."
I packed up, left for home without checking the score board, left my cell phone in a bag, worked on some things around the house, and then decided to soak myself in a warm bath to relax and laid on the bed for a bit.
It was a bit past 4 PM when I decided to call a few people. There were 2 messages waiting on it. The first message was from the Surfrider buddy that we had to coordinate publicity materials during the compeition, but the message sounded like a bad joke. "Congratulations for advancing to the finals." Oh, yeah right, Steve...
I pressed 7 to delete., the next message came on "Next Message... Mosiomoshi, this is Kazu. How did you do with your second heat, I thought I'd check in with you."
Oh, damn shit! I did move up! My brain started to produce a cocktail of of stupidity, a surprise, even some mild happiness neuro-chemicals in one shot.
Some of the improvements to make the next time;
For good or bad, I am, right now, the only person out of the core group of the chapter to actually surf in these local competitions. I know some people have very differing opinions on surf competitions, but all of these ones I am allowed to enter are mainly to promote local environmentalism and awareness through surfing. I think that's a worthy cause, and I should help out as much as I can.
As for competition aspect of it, at my level of surfing, it is not about competing with other people, but it is a part of my own mental and physical training, and having some goal is always very helpful.
This competition was a humbling experience because I lost out and I did a very stupid move especially having came to 2nd place in a division last year on the same contest.
This past week, I have surfed at Linda Mar every day, both on short and long boards, and I felt confident that I could provide some decent ride at the contest. The condition was similar to yesterday and yesterday I had some of my better long boarding sessions.
The shortboard heat was more difficult, partly because I did use a real short board, and I am not totally master at it, and other people were riding basically fun boards. I had a fun board so I should have used it. And in 30 min I had to be in the longboard heat.
Now, even the worse and incredibly stupid story to share.
After finished the long board heat, I have assumed that I did not advance to the next heat. There were 12 people (or more) on the division, that included local surf instructor, most people "surfing for 30+ years 3 time/per week or more" etc etc.
I got out and tried to catch the wave and a big close out came, and my leg got a cramp for not relaxing enough while being tumbled. The jersey almost came off, so I lost quite a bit of time put myself back together. So after all I did not have much good time on the heat.
So having this being the last heat for me, the whole weight got off my shoulder. Now I am a free surfer again until next summer!
My friend Ren and we free surfed for another while. That was great, it was back to normal. It was nice and sunny, and waves were better at the north end than what I had to endure.
By this time, I was very tired and I was ready to leave for a while, take a nap then come back with the banquet event in the evening (my hats off to those actually holds the competition, it is a long day starting from 6 am to 11 pm).
Ren was also wanting to leave so she helped me carry the stuff to the car, but she said on the way out, "Don't you want to check the result?" I said to her "I know the result, there is no need to check."
I packed up, left for home without checking the score board, left my cell phone in a bag, worked on some things around the house, and then decided to soak myself in a warm bath to relax and laid on the bed for a bit.
It was a bit past 4 PM when I decided to call a few people. There were 2 messages waiting on it. The first message was from the Surfrider buddy that we had to coordinate publicity materials during the compeition, but the message sounded like a bad joke. "Congratulations for advancing to the finals." Oh, yeah right, Steve...
I pressed 7 to delete., the next message came on "Next Message... Mosiomoshi, this is Kazu. How did you do with your second heat, I thought I'd check in with you."
Oh, damn shit! I did move up! My brain started to produce a cocktail of of stupidity, a surprise, even some mild happiness neuro-chemicals in one shot.
Some of the improvements to make the next time;
- I should just show up just myself, and let other people handle other stuff, and focus on competing. I was tried out before even the competition started.
- Work on consistency. This is the area that as a "free" surfer I did not pay as much attention to. The consistency comes from the following aspects;
- Wave reading and positioning skills. Read where the good breaks are and paddle over there and wait for it to happen. There are some locals that pride in this skill department.
- More wave reading skills. Only go for the wave that I can make, and if I can make it do make it, and go. If not, let it go. If you catch a wrong wave, you could waste time. I was more interested in keeping my own waves, but I should sometimes venture out to the crowded peak and "steal" some of these more delicious waves.
- More strength... People are faster.
- Don't hesitate to over-gun the situation. I should have taken out the 7'2 egg which was legit for this competition instead of 6'5.
- Do check the score board even if you think you did very shitty. This could be your lucky day.
Saturday, August 18, 2007
Sessions 7107A,B - 7108, 7109, 7110
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
Saturday, August 11, 2007
Session 7104 Flat Day Everywhere, Including Mavericks (Duh!)
Well, it was basically flat everywhere this morning...
I thought that may be there is a hope at our big wave spot.
So I did the surf check this afternoon, but as you can see it was flat here too!
Friday, August 10, 2007
Session 7103 Angry Letter Written on Water
The first type of anger is compared to letters written on stone, they never change, they never go away. The second type of anger is compared to letters written on sand. The third type of anger is compared to letters written on water.
As one of the people who know the sand and water world intimately, I feel that this is something that I practice both in and out of the water.
The nature, the sprit and minds all come together on most any surf sessions.
Become aware of it.
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Session 7102
Who cares!
Wednesday, August 08, 2007
Session 7101
Sunday, August 05, 2007
Session 7100, Did Not Get Caught Inside!
We are in the height of the summer condition where there is not much local winds, but further north in Mendocino county are usually a lot of NW winds, causing some summer fun waves locally.
Weekends usually has been the time to go out with our neighborhood friends to a beach near-by. We cover anywhere from Gray Whale to Waddell Creek on these sessions, but mostly confined to the area of Montara to within the city limits of Half Moon Bay, and occasionally we extend our visit to Pacifica. But that has become less and less especially in the summer.
After a brief surf check from atop the cliff (that's usually the NorCAL surf check), we decided (actually I've convinced my buddy to) get in the water at the location in the picture. It looked easy enough but it turns out to be the same old pattern, very hard paddle getting out. Looking back even just a year ago, I think that I have given up on that. I was even on a Takayama DT4 this time, which is a 9 ft long board. But I was able to get out without too much fuss, at least the first time. I had to time the lull and dash out. Now the dash out number works. Previous season, even dashing out was not working. I can tell this because there were couple of more local surfers that I went out a lot last year, and they could but I could not. So that's one thing that I have really starting to be able to do. I am definitely much faster than short boarders who were there, and that was not even the case last season. I'd be on a long board, and I paddled slower then!
Back to the session, my buddy finally given up after catching a few rides, so I got out too and asked him if he'd try again, and as we talked the ocean started to become calm. But he joked that as soon as one of us would step in the waves start to crank up and he went back to the car. That is usually so true!
I walked up much further into the north end of the beach and got in. As soon as I stepped into the liquid, sure enough, the waves starts to crank. It was shallow enough I could walk for a bit deeper, but more inside wither water kept crushing on me. I just hanged onto the board and let the side current take me to wherever it wants to go. But after a while, I was successfully swept into a rapid rip, and that was all I needed to get out. Initially it was a mess with water colliding from every which directions, but the further and further I paddled, it got calmer and calmer, and finally I made back to the outside. There it was just nice and calm with occasional sets coming in.
When I was starting out, I look at these people in amazement that they get out to way way outside through these kind of mess. I am vividly remembering that. First I could not even understand how they could do that, and what kind of a confidence required to get so far out. "What if they cannot come back?" "Can they swim back?" I thought that they must be awfully confident about themselves. And when I tried, I was so scared of it and I often wondered if I could continue with the sport much longer. Even a more blow to my confidence, and so to my own personal existence, was there were young kids, man and women of all ages that did with smile in their faces, all seemingly relaxed.
This season, I think that I can bear more smiles on my face as I get out in more conditions, and to me personally, I do feel that I have overcame a lot of fear, built more confidence paddling out as well as riding back. For me that's truly a sense of personal accomplishment. And this is coming from a person who was a "D" student in high-school physical education classes.
Friday, August 03, 2007
Session 7099 DP
The day is sure getting shorter. How do I notice that? Well, it is called setting the alarm clock at 5:30 AM in the morning. Now at 5:30 it started to be dark.
How do I know if it is getting darker?
That's because our cat patiently awaits in the morning, and as soon as I step out of the bed, she will show her way to the food tray, and it is so dark that I need to turn the lights on to get there. Even a month ago, it was not like that.
Of course it is even darker when it is foggy out.
It continues to amaze me that us surfers tend to be so much more tuned to the natural cycle of the planet, sun rise/set and moon, tide, winds... And that makes it really appreciate the changes.
Summer DP surfing continues at local beaches as more options are starting to opening up this past week. It has been a lot of fun actually because there are plenty of challenging wave shapes and situations that are really fun for short boarding. If not for you, for me, at least.
I am continuing to work on getting up on the board faster, in control when the waves are faster. This morning, there were couple of better surfers catching a lot more waves than I was, but I am starting to catch these waves too. It has taken me over 4 years of 150+ days a year of surfing. But I am starting to realize that I am just about at the end of the first phase of being a beginner surfer and becoming a totally new beginner of the second phase.
Tomorrow on the 100th session of this year, and I am going to start to think a bit differently on how to develop my surfing in upcoming sessions.
How do I know if it is getting darker?
That's because our cat patiently awaits in the morning, and as soon as I step out of the bed, she will show her way to the food tray, and it is so dark that I need to turn the lights on to get there. Even a month ago, it was not like that.
Of course it is even darker when it is foggy out.
It continues to amaze me that us surfers tend to be so much more tuned to the natural cycle of the planet, sun rise/set and moon, tide, winds... And that makes it really appreciate the changes.
Summer DP surfing continues at local beaches as more options are starting to opening up this past week. It has been a lot of fun actually because there are plenty of challenging wave shapes and situations that are really fun for short boarding. If not for you, for me, at least.
I am continuing to work on getting up on the board faster, in control when the waves are faster. This morning, there were couple of better surfers catching a lot more waves than I was, but I am starting to catch these waves too. It has taken me over 4 years of 150+ days a year of surfing. But I am starting to realize that I am just about at the end of the first phase of being a beginner surfer and becoming a totally new beginner of the second phase.
Tomorrow on the 100th session of this year, and I am going to start to think a bit differently on how to develop my surfing in upcoming sessions.
Thursday, August 02, 2007
Sessions 7097, 7098A, 7098B
We are really into this summer NW wind swell pattern that's just perfect for places. And finally, it will be the 100th day of surfing this year tomorrow. Summer brings small surfs, but it also opens up possibilities of places were we don't normally get to surf.
But also it has been too bad for the Jetty this summer. I actually feel sorry about local kids who rely on this spot. Now we are already talking about back to school sale (didn't you used hate it when you heard that?)
I have been continuing to work on paddling muscles and also fine tuning take off techniques all this spring and summer. I have basically gotten rid of that fearful feeling of currents, and I think I am starting to be looking forward to the times when the NW swells gets to be 14-15 seconds day at the Jetty in the winter. This winter, I can paddle out further out with much more confidence and also I can try taking off to more varieties of wave shapes.
But before that, I am looking forward to the fall surfing. The wind is starting to really calm down both in the morning, and in the late afternoon, and sun is out now many more days.
Surfing just before the fall dusk is really pleasant way of ending a day.
But also it has been too bad for the Jetty this summer. I actually feel sorry about local kids who rely on this spot. Now we are already talking about back to school sale (didn't you used hate it when you heard that?)
I have been continuing to work on paddling muscles and also fine tuning take off techniques all this spring and summer. I have basically gotten rid of that fearful feeling of currents, and I think I am starting to be looking forward to the times when the NW swells gets to be 14-15 seconds day at the Jetty in the winter. This winter, I can paddle out further out with much more confidence and also I can try taking off to more varieties of wave shapes.
But before that, I am looking forward to the fall surfing. The wind is starting to really calm down both in the morning, and in the late afternoon, and sun is out now many more days.
Surfing just before the fall dusk is really pleasant way of ending a day.
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Session 7095: Sorry I Was The One Catching More Waves...
If you saw a while long boarder guy today and catching a lot of waves, that could have been me at the famous beginner break in the county.
Actually I was thinking about this for a bit while I was in the water.
In 2004 or even 05, I would go out and I was extremely frustrated that why other people catch so many more waves and when it was a wave I could catch, there was already someone on it. It was really frustrating, and it is still frustrating because there will be other occasions and places that the same thing happens still.
But here are some things that I am starting to discover;
). "Go ahead! It's yours!", but as soon as the surfer start to paddle in I would also shout "Hey Don't waste it!" (Oh, what a pressure, I am excreting!)
Actually I was thinking about this for a bit while I was in the water.
In 2004 or even 05, I would go out and I was extremely frustrated that why other people catch so many more waves and when it was a wave I could catch, there was already someone on it. It was really frustrating, and it is still frustrating because there will be other occasions and places that the same thing happens still.
But here are some things that I am starting to discover;
- If you are catching a lot of waves, then you tend to catch more. Somehow, other people tend to, perhaps, submit to you a bit?
- I am much more aware of what is happening around me. I know who's better than me, and I know who are not catching, messing up all the time, or showing up with totally inappropriate board for the condition, where they are relative to me etc... A set comes, and if that better guy goes first, along with the people who paddle for every damn wave, all of which usually happens, then I let him and them go, because I will be on the next wave where everything is all clear.
- I catch second or third one in the set that can be a bit smaller, and less desirable, but by now I have built a little more confidence that I can muscle through some take offs on smaller ones in the set.
- I usually manage to find sub peaks so I avoid competing with the best surfers out.
- I show up with a longer board.
- I paddle a bit further from the outside, so people know I am going to get the wave.
- If someone is font of me to catch the same wave I will be, I will shout, "I am Up!", "Going Right!" etc.
Session 7094: Walden Mini Magic Riding Impressions
Finally the summer-like wind swell condition has settled in this past week or so on our area. I like this type of condition because waves can still be challenging for my skill level and at the same time it is not as threatening like when there is south 20 seconds class swells. Summer swells are easier to handle when I mess up, whereas longer period swells can really pull you down!
It was nice, sunny and not much wind at the shore, and Jocelyn, who has been a devoted StokeMaster member offered me to ride her Mini Magic.
It is a 6'8 length board. Not much longer than what I usually ride which is between 6'4 and 6'5. But Mini Magic is a mini-long board. I also have the full Walden Magic 9'0 so it was even more interesting to try this one out.
The condition was about shoulder level, summer mushier beach beak in a popular beach in Northern San Mateo county, and it was very crowded with even a surf competition going at the middle of the beach.
Jocelyn also asked me to help her learn how to duck dive so I handed her my Xanadu Rockhold 5'6 model board and we paddled out. Initially I could not duck dive the Mini Magic, as the nose was so full of the area and foam, but after 4th or 5th paddle back, I got a hang of it and I could perfectly duck dive through it. It does require a bit more effort in the initial front push. The back push is just about as easy (or hard) as my other "more conventional" short boards.
Taking off on this board was significantly easier than on my short boards, and I actually ended up scoring quite a few waves both from the outside and inside, one time the wave was closing on in faster but I made it and so it was good there as well. Taking off on this board does really feel like you are on a long board, mainly from that glidy feeling you get. Once the board starts going, it is actually going, as you get that feeling of the paddling resistance suddenly gone. It is a nice feeling that I know I am going to catch the wave. Whereas, on my short boards, I sometimes need to make sure that they are going, by adding a bit more paddling strokes, and push the front of the board down.
I have caught both lefts and rights, and it was really fun to ride this board. The turning does need some getting used to, and like the Haut Egg 7'6 egg board that I tried before, it does seem to require a bit more weight towards the front to maintain the speed. It was a bit confusing at first as the board did not feel "loose" enough to turn, it does require more long board style turning with more dramatic weight shifting. Or at least that's what I think was happening.
The board comes with 3 fins. But like all of my long boards, I would take the sides off, put a longer fin in the middle and give it another shot.
It was nice, sunny and not much wind at the shore, and Jocelyn, who has been a devoted StokeMaster member offered me to ride her Mini Magic.
It is a 6'8 length board. Not much longer than what I usually ride which is between 6'4 and 6'5. But Mini Magic is a mini-long board. I also have the full Walden Magic 9'0 so it was even more interesting to try this one out.
The condition was about shoulder level, summer mushier beach beak in a popular beach in Northern San Mateo county, and it was very crowded with even a surf competition going at the middle of the beach.
Jocelyn also asked me to help her learn how to duck dive so I handed her my Xanadu Rockhold 5'6 model board and we paddled out. Initially I could not duck dive the Mini Magic, as the nose was so full of the area and foam, but after 4th or 5th paddle back, I got a hang of it and I could perfectly duck dive through it. It does require a bit more effort in the initial front push. The back push is just about as easy (or hard) as my other "more conventional" short boards.
Taking off on this board was significantly easier than on my short boards, and I actually ended up scoring quite a few waves both from the outside and inside, one time the wave was closing on in faster but I made it and so it was good there as well. Taking off on this board does really feel like you are on a long board, mainly from that glidy feeling you get. Once the board starts going, it is actually going, as you get that feeling of the paddling resistance suddenly gone. It is a nice feeling that I know I am going to catch the wave. Whereas, on my short boards, I sometimes need to make sure that they are going, by adding a bit more paddling strokes, and push the front of the board down.
I have caught both lefts and rights, and it was really fun to ride this board. The turning does need some getting used to, and like the Haut Egg 7'6 egg board that I tried before, it does seem to require a bit more weight towards the front to maintain the speed. It was a bit confusing at first as the board did not feel "loose" enough to turn, it does require more long board style turning with more dramatic weight shifting. Or at least that's what I think was happening.
The board comes with 3 fins. But like all of my long boards, I would take the sides off, put a longer fin in the middle and give it another shot.
Friday, July 27, 2007
Session 7093: The Only Game in Town
Every once in a while "the only game in town" situation occurs. It is like a high-school reunion. Everyone... people like me who is not very good but surf a lot, and then there are super champions at local competitions, and peopole whom I never see on this side of the slide all in one mix, all bunched up in one spot, and all at the same time!
This past week I often surfed alone, or with one or two more people in places and these people never show up, so it must be that they must really surf totally different places than I do and they know what's better.
As for the session goes, it was still walling up and not easy fun wave, but the best of the breeds were making some good moves on the wave. Definitely I am planning on getting there.
Also, this morning, I had a late late start of 9:00 as I had to work on a customer issue right when I got up and took for a while. So it is also the case that some of the better surfers just spend all morning finding a good spot. Not for me, I have to get what comes for about an hour and have to get to work!
This past week I often surfed alone, or with one or two more people in places and these people never show up, so it must be that they must really surf totally different places than I do and they know what's better.
As for the session goes, it was still walling up and not easy fun wave, but the best of the breeds were making some good moves on the wave. Definitely I am planning on getting there.
Also, this morning, I had a late late start of 9:00 as I had to work on a customer issue right when I got up and took for a while. So it is also the case that some of the better surfers just spend all morning finding a good spot. Not for me, I have to get what comes for about an hour and have to get to work!
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Seesion 7092 Two Seals - Better Get Out Of There
Normally I won't be spooked, but when two seals showed up and I was all by myself out there, well, I'd rather not want to be on tomorrow's newspaper. I am not so scared of getting eaten up. Today is just as good of day for me to die than tomorrow. But I really am more spooked of the idea that the the papers, web sites and TVs can sell more ads because of my death. I consider myself much more expensive and precious for that!
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Session 7091 Why Is It So Hard To Get Out?
Finally things are becoming usual and typical of the area... It definitely looked doable from the shore, there were some sand-bars, and I go to the outside in one shot the first time, but after that getting back to the outside got so difficult. Every time I end up in the impact zone and cannot paddle away from it.
Finally I gave up, paddled back to the shore, got out and looked at the situation.
I walked down the beach for good 2-3 minutes and got in. The first part was still difficult, then suddenly it got quiet. Looked back I was both carried down further south and also to the outside.
Finally I gave up, paddled back to the shore, got out and looked at the situation.
I walked down the beach for good 2-3 minutes and got in. The first part was still difficult, then suddenly it got quiet. Looked back I was both carried down further south and also to the outside.
Tuesday, July 24, 2007
Session 7090
This morning, thinking like it would still be a repeat of Sunday, I went back to the same spot. As I was pulling in, another local guy we know just pulled out, and there were no other cars, so I have guessed that the condition was not going to be that great.
These days, I know enough faces and their cars that the moment I pull in to the spot, I know it is going to be good or bad.
I would have paddled out even if it was all by myself, but sure enough the waves were just a mess and a lot of backwash waves were already causing the area bouncy in the inside. Sometimes these backwashes can be horrible as the bouncing reflected waves collide with incoming waves and make a huge splash.
I gave up on the spot and I drove up a further north. By then I only had 50 minutes to go, so I went ahead and went in. Paddled out no problem but could not catch a wave. They were either too closed out or backing off.
But water was exceptionally warm, and I was hot in my 4/3. Good paddling exercise as the current was, as usual, very strong there and if I stop paddling, I would be washed way outside and way to the south. It still scares me a bit when that happens, especially when I was all by myself.
These days, I know enough faces and their cars that the moment I pull in to the spot, I know it is going to be good or bad.
I would have paddled out even if it was all by myself, but sure enough the waves were just a mess and a lot of backwash waves were already causing the area bouncy in the inside. Sometimes these backwashes can be horrible as the bouncing reflected waves collide with incoming waves and make a huge splash.
I gave up on the spot and I drove up a further north. By then I only had 50 minutes to go, so I went ahead and went in. Paddled out no problem but could not catch a wave. They were either too closed out or backing off.
But water was exceptionally warm, and I was hot in my 4/3. Good paddling exercise as the current was, as usual, very strong there and if I stop paddling, I would be washed way outside and way to the south. It still scares me a bit when that happens, especially when I was all by myself.
Monday, July 23, 2007
Session 7089 Technical Note
I forgot to mention some of the struggles I had with session 7089.
In a great number of take off attempts with a long board, I just kept burying the front of the board. I thought that waves were makable but they were jacking up too fast. I actually do not care if I ride the wave through but the board should go forward without burying any part of it.
There are several possibilities;
In a great number of take off attempts with a long board, I just kept burying the front of the board. I thought that waves were makable but they were jacking up too fast. I actually do not care if I ride the wave through but the board should go forward without burying any part of it.
There are several possibilities;
- Weighing too much forward of the board during take offs. This could be. Switching between short boards and long boards especially on the same session seems to cause this problem.
- Should have gotten more momentum. Should have started out sooner and stronger and should paddle strong while taking off especially when the tail is jacking up really fast.
- Waves just closed out. Could not have ridden. I kind of doubt about this one. Sure there were some huge close outs during the session. They break at rather shallow water and earlier in the session I was pounded all the way to the bottom.
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Session 7089 Repeat of Saturday But At My Spot
This morning we went to the sport where we were supposed to be yesterday, and it was actually more fun than yesterday. The first half of the session, I have taken out a JC 6'4 and I did not catch much, so like yesterday, I went back and got my Walden 9'0 and I started to catch good and long rides.
Of course, it all matters with the skill levels of surfers. Some good short boarders were getting their fair share of waves. For me, I took the long board out, paddled out to where nobody else was. But as soon as you take a couple of long rides, then that's usually is it. The peak I was owning to myself is now discovered and one by one, people starts to paddle my way.
No problems with me. I just paddle over to yet the next peak. Then before they know it, I am back on the original peak!
Of course, it all matters with the skill levels of surfers. Some good short boarders were getting their fair share of waves. For me, I took the long board out, paddled out to where nobody else was. But as soon as you take a couple of long rides, then that's usually is it. The peak I was owning to myself is now discovered and one by one, people starts to paddle my way.
No problems with me. I just paddle over to yet the next peak. Then before they know it, I am back on the original peak!
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Session 7088. Surprisingly Good and Don't Mess Around
I have a policy that if I go to the first spot and if it looks good enough, I don't mess around looking for another spot.
I have this policy because,
I have another policy. Take more than one boards with me. Especially a longer and shorter board (given a condition). This has helped me on this session. I had hard time catching these outside waves without much power with my 6'5. That fixed it when I got back and gotten out the 9'0 Magic.
See You Out There!
I have this policy because,
- Time in the water is prcious to me. If I know I can ride the waves there, I don't get greedy. I want to get in the water, and now!
- There is 50/50 chance that other location can be worse or better. I have been "burned" numerous times, and wasting lot of gas and time in the process.
I have another policy. Take more than one boards with me. Especially a longer and shorter board (given a condition). This has helped me on this session. I had hard time catching these outside waves without much power with my 6'5. That fixed it when I got back and gotten out the 9'0 Magic.
See You Out There!
Friday, July 20, 2007
Session 7087 Small, A Bit Messy, But Beautiful Morning
I was able to get up extra early this morning, and get out to a local break.
A few weeks ago, my alarm clock crapped out due to continuous dropping from my side table (not by me, by someone else!) So I decided to get an alarm clock with a CD player. As much of a computer and gadget geek as I am, I actually have not done something like getting up to a music, but I plugged in a Brian Eno CD to it, and it is great because the music comes up really from low volume and the gradually builds up in kind of an organic mood. I listen to a lot of Jazz but waking up to Art Blakey's drumming is not quite my idea of waking up. This is ideal, and I have been kind of stoked about this because getting up early and smoothly is a requirement for my surfing lifestyle, and getting a good relaxed session sets up for the rest of the day.
It was a beautiful morning with not much local winds, sunny skies, warm 56F water, and just a gorgeous beach, and crystal clear water to get into. I had basically the beach to myself. There was only another surfer out, but this surfer was all the way to the other end of the beach, so might as well not count one.
Waves were small, and a bit disorganized, so I was tempted to head further north, but then I thought, why screw around, lose time, aggravated with crowds when I can surf here basically by myself, and hopefully a few of my friends will show up in a bit, and that would be fun too.
I took my 9'0 Walden Magic. As usual, the inside was already blocking my way out with white water after another. But I am tuned into the channel and I get on a conveyor belt if I pick the entry right. Later on my Japanese buddy showed up and we surfed the second half. We decided to walk back to the channel and retry as the strong side current will continue to push us towards the direction of Pacifica where I did not want to go. Re-entry idea turned out to be a great idea. I started to catch some fun hollow waves.
My buddy pointed out to me in Japanese that I really go for the edge of late take-off ("Kiwadoi"). That was a fun ride, it was more like how I'd go for with a short board. I was actually thinking about that for a while, and I came to the conclusion that I am basically a lazy surfer.
I am lazy to the extent that I don't want to consume a lot of energy, because I don't want to show up at work all exhausted, and I am not that strong of a surfer either. So over the years, I tended to opt for late take offs to let the wave help me take off rather than paddling really far and hard. Same way with paddling back after finishing a ride. I use the channel or if there is a lot of white water coming through, I just either get off the board and wait, or sit up or if I am on a short board, I would just keep ducking in the same spot then when the time is right I start to dash forward.
I still admire a lot of local experts who finish a ride and paddle right back. I am starting to do that, but it will be a bit more time in the water.
While the condition in the water was not so optimum, anything above was. As the sun started to go up higher in the sky, the color of the whole place changes and it was just gorgeous and we should be thankful that we have these marine sanctuaries for all of us to enjoy, free. Having lived near the ocean now, I have realized that we cannot take these things for granted, but we should fight for them, and there always are threats.
A few weeks ago, my alarm clock crapped out due to continuous dropping from my side table (not by me, by someone else!) So I decided to get an alarm clock with a CD player. As much of a computer and gadget geek as I am, I actually have not done something like getting up to a music, but I plugged in a Brian Eno CD to it, and it is great because the music comes up really from low volume and the gradually builds up in kind of an organic mood. I listen to a lot of Jazz but waking up to Art Blakey's drumming is not quite my idea of waking up. This is ideal, and I have been kind of stoked about this because getting up early and smoothly is a requirement for my surfing lifestyle, and getting a good relaxed session sets up for the rest of the day.
It was a beautiful morning with not much local winds, sunny skies, warm 56F water, and just a gorgeous beach, and crystal clear water to get into. I had basically the beach to myself. There was only another surfer out, but this surfer was all the way to the other end of the beach, so might as well not count one.
Waves were small, and a bit disorganized, so I was tempted to head further north, but then I thought, why screw around, lose time, aggravated with crowds when I can surf here basically by myself, and hopefully a few of my friends will show up in a bit, and that would be fun too.
I took my 9'0 Walden Magic. As usual, the inside was already blocking my way out with white water after another. But I am tuned into the channel and I get on a conveyor belt if I pick the entry right. Later on my Japanese buddy showed up and we surfed the second half. We decided to walk back to the channel and retry as the strong side current will continue to push us towards the direction of Pacifica where I did not want to go. Re-entry idea turned out to be a great idea. I started to catch some fun hollow waves.
My buddy pointed out to me in Japanese that I really go for the edge of late take-off ("Kiwadoi"). That was a fun ride, it was more like how I'd go for with a short board. I was actually thinking about that for a while, and I came to the conclusion that I am basically a lazy surfer.
I am lazy to the extent that I don't want to consume a lot of energy, because I don't want to show up at work all exhausted, and I am not that strong of a surfer either. So over the years, I tended to opt for late take offs to let the wave help me take off rather than paddling really far and hard. Same way with paddling back after finishing a ride. I use the channel or if there is a lot of white water coming through, I just either get off the board and wait, or sit up or if I am on a short board, I would just keep ducking in the same spot then when the time is right I start to dash forward.
I still admire a lot of local experts who finish a ride and paddle right back. I am starting to do that, but it will be a bit more time in the water.
While the condition in the water was not so optimum, anything above was. As the sun started to go up higher in the sky, the color of the whole place changes and it was just gorgeous and we should be thankful that we have these marine sanctuaries for all of us to enjoy, free. Having lived near the ocean now, I have realized that we cannot take these things for granted, but we should fight for them, and there always are threats.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Sessions 7085-6, More Summer Surfing
One of the things that I am starting to realize is this.
Local wind swells, especially mixed in with background level swells, make it very difficult to forecast what is going to happen.
In Northern California, many of us are familiar with micro-climates, but they also apply to local swells too. Also, it really proves me the point that wind swells are really ridable. Of course, if you ask people who venture out in the middle of winter in the Great Lakes all know about it.
The waves come from all directions, and also not consistently but it is kind of a situation where if you wait long enough there can be some fun waves.
Local wind swells, especially mixed in with background level swells, make it very difficult to forecast what is going to happen.
In Northern California, many of us are familiar with micro-climates, but they also apply to local swells too. Also, it really proves me the point that wind swells are really ridable. Of course, if you ask people who venture out in the middle of winter in the Great Lakes all know about it.
The waves come from all directions, and also not consistently but it is kind of a situation where if you wait long enough there can be some fun waves.
Monday, July 16, 2007
Session 7084: Summer Wind Swell
After all of learn a bit about the swells and such, a lot of us tend to ignore the summer local swells, or consider them as something bad or to avoid.
This morning was a perfect example of this. There was nobody out, but I did venture out on the local 7-8 second WNW swells, plus a super low tide, and the fact is that I did have some fun rides.
These summer local swells on beach breaks are actually fun. They don't come all in one big huge wall that cover the whole California State Park, instead they pop up here and there. I used to be a bit more desperate and paddled to the direction each time one broke. I've learned a lesson, and now if I see one I paddle out there and just sit tight and wait. It seems to come in sequence, one further left, another closer to my left then at where I sit. Sometimes, it does not come but I just relax and wait for one. Eventually sets start right where I sit.
So that's what I surf in the summer and many of Half Moon Bay locals are really pro at this. They would come out, ride them really well doing things like "off the lips" and such, and before I know they are all gone.
This morning, none of the locals pick the spot where I was, but I did have some good waves. The problem is that nobody saw me, so I could not prove I was there!
This morning was a perfect example of this. There was nobody out, but I did venture out on the local 7-8 second WNW swells, plus a super low tide, and the fact is that I did have some fun rides.
These summer local swells on beach breaks are actually fun. They don't come all in one big huge wall that cover the whole California State Park, instead they pop up here and there. I used to be a bit more desperate and paddled to the direction each time one broke. I've learned a lesson, and now if I see one I paddle out there and just sit tight and wait. It seems to come in sequence, one further left, another closer to my left then at where I sit. Sometimes, it does not come but I just relax and wait for one. Eventually sets start right where I sit.
So that's what I surf in the summer and many of Half Moon Bay locals are really pro at this. They would come out, ride them really well doing things like "off the lips" and such, and before I know they are all gone.
This morning, none of the locals pick the spot where I was, but I did have some good waves. The problem is that nobody saw me, so I could not prove I was there!
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Session 7083: Fun Summer Ride, Post Accident Report, SiteUpdate
Post Injury Report
This was the first session since I screwed up my finger. I have now loaded the Morrey Boogie board in my car just in case I thought I cannot flick myself up, but today it was about chest high on a gentle side so I took out Walden Magic 9'0 see if there are issues and I had a blast. I wrapped my finger with many layers of tape.... That's another thing I should share with you. If you need to tape your fingers, cut smaller pieces and wrap them around over one joint at time. The result comes out much cleaner, easier and stability is good. Also gloves fit over much easier. Also as soon as you get injured like that I go for a 600 mg of Ibuprofen right away to control the immediate onset of pain and inflammation until you get to the doctor or ice first. [Note I am not a physician.] Carry and stock your first aid kit, though, because you never know when and what, or you may be appreciated by helping other injured surfers.
Long board is much easier to get up on, and since I do not need to duck dive, there is less grabbing of the rails. Sometimes, I start to wonder why do I even bother with short boards in the summer... It is so much fun and it is just as difficult.
I also have told you about flat-palm flick up method, and I have switched over to that today to get around the finger problem and the result was really good. I think it is safer and so I will try to use this technique whenever I can. I know, I know... there are differing thoughts on this, some people adamantly "believe" that you need to grab the rails to get up. I have read about this from various surf instruction books and the opinion are also different. Some recommend one method over another. This seems to mean to me that either ones are OK.
StokeMaster Web Site Update.
This gets into a bit technical, since StokeMaster is an Internet based surfing club, I ought to share with what I have been learning.
Yahoo seems to be mounting a full blown fight against Google. In the past few weeks, of not a month, the StokeMaster web site has been indexed at unprecedented amount. In fact, it is the biggest bandwidth consumer of this site. I though that MSN bot was very aggressive but the Yahoo Slurp goes at least double that. Even though I send in site maps to Google, it has taken a back seat in indexing this site. I won't be surprised when Yahoo gets back to top position in traffic delivery by next year this time as far as this site is concerned.
I think that I can see the result. It used to be that Google and MSN brought the most traffic to this site in that order, however, now, Yahoo is superseded MSN and coming to the second place in the number of traffic.
This was the first session since I screwed up my finger. I have now loaded the Morrey Boogie board in my car just in case I thought I cannot flick myself up, but today it was about chest high on a gentle side so I took out Walden Magic 9'0 see if there are issues and I had a blast. I wrapped my finger with many layers of tape.... That's another thing I should share with you. If you need to tape your fingers, cut smaller pieces and wrap them around over one joint at time. The result comes out much cleaner, easier and stability is good. Also gloves fit over much easier. Also as soon as you get injured like that I go for a 600 mg of Ibuprofen right away to control the immediate onset of pain and inflammation until you get to the doctor or ice first. [Note I am not a physician.] Carry and stock your first aid kit, though, because you never know when and what, or you may be appreciated by helping other injured surfers.
Long board is much easier to get up on, and since I do not need to duck dive, there is less grabbing of the rails. Sometimes, I start to wonder why do I even bother with short boards in the summer... It is so much fun and it is just as difficult.
I also have told you about flat-palm flick up method, and I have switched over to that today to get around the finger problem and the result was really good. I think it is safer and so I will try to use this technique whenever I can. I know, I know... there are differing thoughts on this, some people adamantly "believe" that you need to grab the rails to get up. I have read about this from various surf instruction books and the opinion are also different. Some recommend one method over another. This seems to mean to me that either ones are OK.
StokeMaster Web Site Update.
This gets into a bit technical, since StokeMaster is an Internet based surfing club, I ought to share with what I have been learning.
Yahoo seems to be mounting a full blown fight against Google. In the past few weeks, of not a month, the StokeMaster web site has been indexed at unprecedented amount. In fact, it is the biggest bandwidth consumer of this site. I though that MSN bot was very aggressive but the Yahoo Slurp goes at least double that. Even though I send in site maps to Google, it has taken a back seat in indexing this site. I won't be surprised when Yahoo gets back to top position in traffic delivery by next year this time as far as this site is concerned.
I think that I can see the result. It used to be that Google and MSN brought the most traffic to this site in that order, however, now, Yahoo is superseded MSN and coming to the second place in the number of traffic.
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Session 7082: Accident!
Damn! I had a somewhat of a setback.
I took off on a closeout wave, the board wabbled, and the board knocked my finger #4 (#3 if you are a C++ or C# programmer), and sprained it. I surfed the rest of the session, but afterwards the middle knuckle was swollen and I bandaged it to to immobilize it.
I know it will take 6 weeks to heal. Between my acclaimed collection of motorcyles and surfing accidents, I know and I even don't finish all of the prescribed Vicodine just in case this sort of things happen.
I will be surfing on my Morrey Boogie for next several sessions. Perhaps, I will try to re-develop the "palm on the deck" flick up after that. A while ago when I posted about that technique some people disagreed that that won't be a good way to flick up. But they will see.
Oh well, what did I tell you in my disclaimers all over, "Surfing is a dangerous sport..."
You all be careful. You never know. Smaller waves seems to be more dangerous!
I took off on a closeout wave, the board wabbled, and the board knocked my finger #4 (#3 if you are a C++ or C# programmer), and sprained it. I surfed the rest of the session, but afterwards the middle knuckle was swollen and I bandaged it to to immobilize it.
I know it will take 6 weeks to heal. Between my acclaimed collection of motorcyles and surfing accidents, I know and I even don't finish all of the prescribed Vicodine just in case this sort of things happen.
I will be surfing on my Morrey Boogie for next several sessions. Perhaps, I will try to re-develop the "palm on the deck" flick up after that. A while ago when I posted about that technique some people disagreed that that won't be a good way to flick up. But they will see.
Oh well, what did I tell you in my disclaimers all over, "Surfing is a dangerous sport..."
You all be careful. You never know. Smaller waves seems to be more dangerous!
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Session 7081: What A Dedication!
I thought that I could own the whole beach by myself this morning, but there was one guy already doing his StokeCHECK and it was one of the local regulars, though I have not seen him in months.
At any rate, I was happy to see that at least one more person would get out with me, especially at this spot, it is a bit spooky when I am just the only one out.
You know what he told me though is even more shocking. He said that his wife is having a baby today! He said that he will put 30 min of session in then head to the hospital!
What the %&$@? What a control!
I am not going into medical details. It is basically routine stuff these days, I guess...
But if I was him, I would not have gotten out today.
I told him that there are many past buddies of mine who completely quit surfing and became dedicated parents. He said that he would never do that again. I would believe him having seen him so committed to surfing today!
He is a really good local surfer and he was just in good control, and sure enough he was there for about 30 min, got out and waved me good bye.
Good luck to you and your wife, man, and see you in the water tomorrow!
At any rate, I was happy to see that at least one more person would get out with me, especially at this spot, it is a bit spooky when I am just the only one out.
You know what he told me though is even more shocking. He said that his wife is having a baby today! He said that he will put 30 min of session in then head to the hospital!
What the %&$@? What a control!
I am not going into medical details. It is basically routine stuff these days, I guess...
But if I was him, I would not have gotten out today.
I told him that there are many past buddies of mine who completely quit surfing and became dedicated parents. He said that he would never do that again. I would believe him having seen him so committed to surfing today!
He is a really good local surfer and he was just in good control, and sure enough he was there for about 30 min, got out and waved me good bye.
Good luck to you and your wife, man, and see you in the water tomorrow!
Monday, July 09, 2007
Session 7080: DP
The same spot as Sunday PM session again. The swell size has decreased a bit and so did the wind, so I thought I would check here first before checking further north where a bigger crowd awaits.
It was definitely "doable" especially compared to yesterday, so rather than fighting the crowd, I decided to go in. I was hoping that by getting out someone else would join. But I was there for good hour and nobody else showed up. Mondays are often like this, and I have been in some of the more phenomenal conditions on Mondays.
I almost felt guilty, but kept on surfing, and the time came to get to the office and there still was nobody!
I was amazed.
It was definitely "doable" especially compared to yesterday, so rather than fighting the crowd, I decided to go in. I was hoping that by getting out someone else would join. But I was there for good hour and nobody else showed up. Mondays are often like this, and I have been in some of the more phenomenal conditions on Mondays.
I almost felt guilty, but kept on surfing, and the time came to get to the office and there still was nobody!
I was amazed.
Sunday, July 08, 2007
Sessions 7079 A and B
This weekend surfing was quite challenging. The prevailing NW local swells has gotten quite powerful, unusual for this time of the year. Of course, this local wind situation has gotten a bit out of control this year, and "upwelling" has been talk of the town. Even Half Moon Bay review has run a special article with Mark Sponsler being interviewed. Apparently, though, last year we did not have enough wind and hence the upwelling activity so that ended up not supplying birds and so a lot of them died.
In Buddhism we talk a lot about karma and that's kind of a situation when one thing causes (or not causes) another and eventually much further down the line something is affected. This is why we should not take our environmental issue so lightly. Eventually it will come and get all of us if we don't watch the whole of what is happening.
Back to local wind swells, it has gotten a bit powerful to the extent that it woke up the bay as well as in the north part of the county. I made a previous commitment to surf with my friend in Moss Beach and he came over to a spot in the bay in the morning. It looked surfable to me but once we got in there it was just a bunch of close-outs, and I did catch a few but basically it ended up not as much fun. He got out in half an hour. I got out with him, but then I went back in and caught a few waves that was actually not too bad. These conditions can change by the minute especially when the tide swings much.
I thought that that was the Sunday session, but later on I got a call from him again and he was going to do another spot. I said I had a lot to do and hang up the phone, but then I thought after a moment. What the heck, let's get out again. This is a weekend after all.
So I went out.
When I got there two other locals I know were just watching and hesitating to get in. There was only one body-boarder out at the spot I was interested in. The waves were much bigger than the spot in the morning, and I too was a bit hesitant because it sure looked like my upper limit when bigger sets came in.
But I sort of bluffed at them that I am going so they should come. It took me about a good 10 minutes worth of begging to get them going. Eventually they went back to their cars to suit up. I hopped down from the rock I was sitting on while I was talking to them, and run to the spot where there is a constant rip out.
I kept my calm and paddled out. Just in about 10 strokes I was carried easy to the outside to where this body boarder was. I don't remember if I had to duck through or not now. I sat inside a bit to see where the break is happening.
A bigger set rolled in and I gave it a try but I pearled and as a result I was held down for a bit. This basically repeated throughout the session and so I did not actually got a ride that I can say I did. But I kept trying and kept paddled back for more.
By the time I got out though there were just three of them out.
In Buddhism we talk a lot about karma and that's kind of a situation when one thing causes (or not causes) another and eventually much further down the line something is affected. This is why we should not take our environmental issue so lightly. Eventually it will come and get all of us if we don't watch the whole of what is happening.
Back to local wind swells, it has gotten a bit powerful to the extent that it woke up the bay as well as in the north part of the county. I made a previous commitment to surf with my friend in Moss Beach and he came over to a spot in the bay in the morning. It looked surfable to me but once we got in there it was just a bunch of close-outs, and I did catch a few but basically it ended up not as much fun. He got out in half an hour. I got out with him, but then I went back in and caught a few waves that was actually not too bad. These conditions can change by the minute especially when the tide swings much.
I thought that that was the Sunday session, but later on I got a call from him again and he was going to do another spot. I said I had a lot to do and hang up the phone, but then I thought after a moment. What the heck, let's get out again. This is a weekend after all.
So I went out.
When I got there two other locals I know were just watching and hesitating to get in. There was only one body-boarder out at the spot I was interested in. The waves were much bigger than the spot in the morning, and I too was a bit hesitant because it sure looked like my upper limit when bigger sets came in.
But I sort of bluffed at them that I am going so they should come. It took me about a good 10 minutes worth of begging to get them going. Eventually they went back to their cars to suit up. I hopped down from the rock I was sitting on while I was talking to them, and run to the spot where there is a constant rip out.
I kept my calm and paddled out. Just in about 10 strokes I was carried easy to the outside to where this body boarder was. I don't remember if I had to duck through or not now. I sat inside a bit to see where the break is happening.
A bigger set rolled in and I gave it a try but I pearled and as a result I was held down for a bit. This basically repeated throughout the session and so I did not actually got a ride that I can say I did. But I kept trying and kept paddled back for more.
By the time I got out though there were just three of them out.
Saturday, July 07, 2007
Session 7078
With prevailing NW winds in the ocean and also locally at the beach, we were shut out of the north county spots this morning, and in HMB, there was not much waves either. So I headed much further south to escape from the chops and the winds. I know there is a reliable spot when this happens, and sure enough, it was going about overhead and actually rather hollow. I took out my shortest board which is a 5'6 Rockhold model, and headed out.
Already there were some good people catching waves, but the waves were breaking harder than I thought, and it has been quite challenging to catch waves. Usually when a situation like this happens, I would panic and that makes the situation even worse, but I usually cannot control the panic part... that just comes, and so when it comes, I just need to control it.
The main problem I have is that I just don't have a lot of confidence yet, and that causes a bad loop causing me to mess up on take offs or not catch the waves when I can catch otherwise, that makes me feel even less confident. It is actually worse when I don't have someone with me that I can look up to sharing the wave. If there is a better buddy that shows up, he (or she of course) would show me that there really is nothing to it. If I see my buddy take off just next to me that really make me feel more encouraged to do the same on the next set.
Several times in the past, I was taken to situations with more advanced surfers that I would never set a foot in if it was just by myself. Much bigger waves, much further out in the ocean or a spot that I have never been to. I was so scared but in the end I came back all intact and even caught some of the waves they were catching. After doing so many of those, eventually realize that "Hey, this is exactly like the time before with my buddy. I can handle this." And so I go out and have really fun.
And that's the kind of things that I wanted to tell you. It is often important to find a mentor surfer. I think that give you a lot more confidence.
And don't use me as your mentor. You've heard about the expression "A blind leading a blind."
Already there were some good people catching waves, but the waves were breaking harder than I thought, and it has been quite challenging to catch waves. Usually when a situation like this happens, I would panic and that makes the situation even worse, but I usually cannot control the panic part... that just comes, and so when it comes, I just need to control it.
The main problem I have is that I just don't have a lot of confidence yet, and that causes a bad loop causing me to mess up on take offs or not catch the waves when I can catch otherwise, that makes me feel even less confident. It is actually worse when I don't have someone with me that I can look up to sharing the wave. If there is a better buddy that shows up, he (or she of course) would show me that there really is nothing to it. If I see my buddy take off just next to me that really make me feel more encouraged to do the same on the next set.
Several times in the past, I was taken to situations with more advanced surfers that I would never set a foot in if it was just by myself. Much bigger waves, much further out in the ocean or a spot that I have never been to. I was so scared but in the end I came back all intact and even caught some of the waves they were catching. After doing so many of those, eventually realize that "Hey, this is exactly like the time before with my buddy. I can handle this." And so I go out and have really fun.
And that's the kind of things that I wanted to tell you. It is often important to find a mentor surfer. I think that give you a lot more confidence.
And don't use me as your mentor. You've heard about the expression "A blind leading a blind."
Friday, July 06, 2007
Session 7077
Fog has lifted off at the beach, and the local wind was almost none. Enjoyable.
Thoughts of The Day:
This morning, I have been contemplating about whether blogging every session, or blogging about sessions in of it serve any purposes. It occurs to me often that some people may take this as myself just showing off how often I get to surf, or how well I am getting at surfing.
Then I remembered of a movie scene from a long time ago, it was about someone appearing on "PBS" show and while the person is getting the "make up" for the show, the beautician told him "It's a PBS show, nobody is watching." So that's probably the situation I am in. It is actually more for my own satisfaction than for the others and so it really does not matter. So I might as well continue on.
As usual with most any sessions, if I go out, I usually feel very good afterwards. Hope, if anyone is reading this, you also feel good when you get out.
Thoughts of The Day:
This morning, I have been contemplating about whether blogging every session, or blogging about sessions in of it serve any purposes. It occurs to me often that some people may take this as myself just showing off how often I get to surf, or how well I am getting at surfing.
Then I remembered of a movie scene from a long time ago, it was about someone appearing on "PBS" show and while the person is getting the "make up" for the show, the beautician told him "It's a PBS show, nobody is watching." So that's probably the situation I am in. It is actually more for my own satisfaction than for the others and so it really does not matter. So I might as well continue on.
As usual with most any sessions, if I go out, I usually feel very good afterwards. Hope, if anyone is reading this, you also feel good when you get out.
Thursday, July 05, 2007
Session 7076: Now the North Kicks In!
In the morning, I do a quick check of local buoy and wind reports, post that to the home page and the StokeFORUM and then plan where to go for surfing before I hit the office. Posting a StokeCHECK is not a big work because I check the stuff anyway so why not share what I've learned, and that's all about all my web contents.
So, when I checked this morning, I was surprised to see close to 10 ft of swells and they were coming all from NW. In the past few days, I was so focused on the south swells that I have totally forgotten about the NW stuff coming in. But that's where all these programs comes in to picture. They are all faithfully recording the changes all over night without complaining and I really think that's really remarkable, and that's something we should all not take them for granted.
Already at 6:15, there was a live surf report from my local buddy with the north county all mess etc. So I opted to go for a local break, and checked out a spot further south. It was actually a huge mess with lots of waves coming in. It certainly looked like a paddle-out hell.
Then remarkably further up at the Jetty it was almost flat. It is so amazing just 4-5 miles can make so much difference, even I know that would be exactly what happens logically.
So I decided to dip in at the Jetty as the first surfer. I used to really hesitate to do that, but now I don't care. I really don't have a whole lot of time. I do love to get in the water and even just paddling keeps me in good shape, so I don't really mind even if it is totally flat. There were some ripples on the water but it was otherwise glassy and I really enjoy paddling in these waters. I just feel like I am going smooth and fast out in the ocean.
However, every once in a while some waves did come and I caught a few very short rides, or more like a take-off practice.
So, when I checked this morning, I was surprised to see close to 10 ft of swells and they were coming all from NW. In the past few days, I was so focused on the south swells that I have totally forgotten about the NW stuff coming in. But that's where all these programs comes in to picture. They are all faithfully recording the changes all over night without complaining and I really think that's really remarkable, and that's something we should all not take them for granted.
Already at 6:15, there was a live surf report from my local buddy with the north county all mess etc. So I opted to go for a local break, and checked out a spot further south. It was actually a huge mess with lots of waves coming in. It certainly looked like a paddle-out hell.
Then remarkably further up at the Jetty it was almost flat. It is so amazing just 4-5 miles can make so much difference, even I know that would be exactly what happens logically.
So I decided to dip in at the Jetty as the first surfer. I used to really hesitate to do that, but now I don't care. I really don't have a whole lot of time. I do love to get in the water and even just paddling keeps me in good shape, so I don't really mind even if it is totally flat. There were some ripples on the water but it was otherwise glassy and I really enjoy paddling in these waters. I just feel like I am going smooth and fast out in the ocean.
However, every once in a while some waves did come and I caught a few very short rides, or more like a take-off practice.
Wednesday, July 04, 2007
Session 7075: South Got Stronger...
Today, the south got stronger and I did not have a whole lot of time so I headed out to a beach near-by knowing that it won't be that great. When I got there, it was standard "mostly close-outs" situation. I was pretty much the second person out.
Practiced mainly on getting up faster and nailing the turn #1. I know some people can still ride these waves. I need to get there, since if I do, I know I can enjoy a lot more with these breaks we get around here.
Practiced mainly on getting up faster and nailing the turn #1. I know some people can still ride these waves. I need to get there, since if I do, I know I can enjoy a lot more with these breaks we get around here.
Tuesday, July 03, 2007
Session 7074: Start of the South Swells
Finally the south swells hit the area, while the onshore blew from the west, the waves were decent and so we hit the spot on the picture. The tide was too low in the morning. Wish that was not the case, but otherwise I got a few really satisfying rides.
Monday, July 02, 2007
Got up early, but was flat.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)