In a great number of take off attempts with a long board, I just kept burying the front of the board. I thought that waves were makable but they were jacking up too fast. I actually do not care if I ride the wave through but the board should go forward without burying any part of it.
There are several possibilities;
- Weighing too much forward of the board during take offs. This could be. Switching between short boards and long boards especially on the same session seems to cause this problem.
- Should have gotten more momentum. Should have started out sooner and stronger and should paddle strong while taking off especially when the tail is jacking up really fast.
- Waves just closed out. Could not have ridden. I kind of doubt about this one. Sure there were some huge close outs during the session. They break at rather shallow water and earlier in the session I was pounded all the way to the bottom.