This weekend surfing was quite challenging. The prevailing NW local swells has gotten quite powerful, unusual for this time of the year. Of course, this local wind situation has gotten a bit out of control this year, and "upwelling" has been talk of the town. Even Half Moon Bay review has run a special article with Mark Sponsler being interviewed. Apparently, though, last year we did not have enough wind and hence the upwelling activity so that ended up not supplying birds and so a lot of them died.
In Buddhism we talk a lot about karma and that's kind of a situation when one thing causes (or not causes) another and eventually much further down the line something is affected. This is why we should not take our environmental issue so lightly. Eventually it will come and get all of us if we don't watch the whole of what is happening.
Back to local wind swells, it has gotten a bit powerful to the extent that it woke up the bay as well as in the north part of the county. I made a previous commitment to surf with my friend in Moss Beach and he came over to a spot in the bay in the morning. It looked surfable to me but once we got in there it was just a bunch of close-outs, and I did catch a few but basically it ended up not as much fun. He got out in half an hour. I got out with him, but then I went back in and caught a few waves that was actually not too bad. These conditions can change by the minute especially when the tide swings much.
I thought that that was the Sunday session, but later on I got a call from him again and he was going to do another spot. I said I had a lot to do and hang up the phone, but then I thought after a moment. What the heck, let's get out again. This is a weekend after all.
So I went out.
When I got there two other locals I know were just watching and hesitating to get in. There was only one body-boarder out at the spot I was interested in. The waves were much bigger than the spot in the morning, and I too was a bit hesitant because it sure looked like my upper limit when bigger sets came in.
But I sort of bluffed at them that I am going so they should come. It took me about a good 10 minutes worth of begging to get them going. Eventually they went back to their cars to suit up. I hopped down from the rock I was sitting on while I was talking to them, and run to the spot where there is a constant rip out.
I kept my calm and paddled out. Just in about 10 strokes I was carried easy to the outside to where this body boarder was. I don't remember if I had to duck through or not now. I sat inside a bit to see where the break is happening.
A bigger set rolled in and I gave it a try but I pearled and as a result I was held down for a bit. This basically repeated throughout the session and so I did not actually got a ride that I can say I did. But I kept trying and kept paddled back for more.
By the time I got out though there were just three of them out.
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