After all of learn a bit about the swells and such, a lot of us tend to ignore the summer local swells, or consider them as something bad or to avoid.
This morning was a perfect example of this. There was nobody out, but I did venture out on the local 7-8 second WNW swells, plus a super low tide, and the fact is that I did have some fun rides.
These summer local swells on beach breaks are actually fun. They don't come all in one big huge wall that cover the whole California State Park, instead they pop up here and there. I used to be a bit more desperate and paddled to the direction each time one broke. I've learned a lesson, and now if I see one I paddle out there and just sit tight and wait. It seems to come in sequence, one further left, another closer to my left then at where I sit. Sometimes, it does not come but I just relax and wait for one. Eventually sets start right where I sit.
So that's what I surf in the summer and many of Half Moon Bay locals are really pro at this. They would come out, ride them really well doing things like "off the lips" and such, and before I know they are all gone.
This morning, none of the locals pick the spot where I was, but I did have some good waves. The problem is that nobody saw me, so I could not prove I was there!
Post a Comment