I am continuing to discuss the disadvantage of starting out with a short board. This discussion applies to mainly to late bloomers like myself who would start surfing much later in life; not from being a grom surfer. For groms they are shorter, smaller and their relative strength to the situation is different.
One of the most crucial thing I have realized is that I (probably still do) not have physical strength and agility to handle a short board. Just to get that kind of strength requires either much practice on the water or on the ground. My preference with this is that I am focusing only on surfing so I do not do any other type of conditioning exercise. So this is the reason why I surf a lot, as I see this as my gym membership out in the ocean.
The amount of paddling that is needed to get into the wave successfully requires tremendously more power than on a long board, it is more so because you would want to challenge hollower and faster waves.
Once the board gets in the wave, I need to be up on the board as soon as possible. This is always the case whether the waves are faster or slower. Short boards are not very forgiving.
I am continuing to master above two. Should I have only done long boarding for a couple of years right from the start, I would have a chance to gradually and more consistently build up these strength and agility
Surfed at LM in the morning with Magic 9'0, and it was one of the better condition days. Other spots on the way there looked good, but on weekends I also am social. I am moving up much closer to the nose. May be if I log 4 more hours on the board, I hope to grab the nose with my toes.
Looks like this NW swells are going to be here today too. Go have some fun.