If you happened to see me from the highway, yeah, that was me this morning.
Another day, a local break. I probably was making a fool out of myself. Nevertheless, I was surfing all by myself plus an otter, which is kind of unusual, but it was eating a fish on its tummy.
The condition was not good at all, but I had a limited time so I had to surf the home break.
The waves were braking closer to the shore most of the times and when a bigger one comes it really closed big time!
But I decided to take this situation to an advantage and practiced paddling really hard into the wave then force the board angled. This is one technique that is said to be almost a requirement when you start to catch some of the steeper waves. The idea seems to be that you really paddle hard as I insert myself into a angle of the the direction of the line. Then speed down the line before the wave closes. Really tricky move from both the stand point of getting in the direction and also flicking up.