Finally Speed Building Is Starting to Work!
I think I am finally starting to break through yet another step in “learn how to surf.” And that's the speed building part of the rides.
What do I mean by this?
Well, if you look at people who are “ripping” and who are just surfing, there is one distinct difference, among, of course, a lot of differences.
You see a lot of “regular” surfers who can surf decently. Their rides are reasonably long and their riding styles are not awkward. But there is one thing that distinguish from that level of surfing to the next level of surfing. They are just going along the wave, but not adding much to it, and speed fizzles out and that's it.
Then there are the “next level” surfers out there who can consistently pull-out of the wave with their own power and their rides are more dynamic and quite often longer.
I have been trying to figure that out. Of course, it looks obvious to most people who take up the sport there are visible differences between professional and “regular” surfers. What I have been trying to figure out is exactly what makes these differences, and more importantly how to get there.
I came to the conclusion, and that is summarized in just one single word. The “speed.”
So especially in this past year, I have really been focusing on how in the heck I can learn how to get the speed. Theoretically, I understand it. But as usual with my surfing progress, the theory and the body do not follow more often than not.
The theory part is the extraction of wave power through making turns. Gain the power at the top of the wave, accumulate it there, then release it at the bottom, then go back up again to get more power.
So what's the big deal?
It is a big deal for me because it has been a biggest hurdle for me. Because mainly what happens to most of us is that when you take off, we tend to take a straighter line down, and by the time you get to the bottom there is no power left. Stalling, the wave closes out from the back, then that's the end of the ride.
One of the things to overcome this are the wave selection technique and also a much stronger paddling power to get myself early towards the top part of the wave, and finally much more “aggressive” use of knees and hips to make things happen. Once I can get into that critical part of the wave and if I can consistently flick up then the rest is much easy. With that initial speed and part of the wave I have a lot more choice what the next second will be and where to turn next. The last part is the turn at the bottom. When I can set up for the turn with already going at a good speed, I am starting to really push hard on the board to get up back the wave, or sometimes, make a fast cutback to get back to the section of the wave where it is still building up.
So, now I am really thrilled to polish these skills up to a more consistent one, and to be consistent, I also need to continue to work on wave selection, take-off, and faster flick up.
A member on StokeFORUM was curious why I made a fool out of myself on Tuesday. It was because I was again only a solo surfer. Everyone went to LM, SC, or OB but there. Sorry, again, I did not have a whole lot of time to go some place else.
Last two sessions were really fun at LM. Small but really ridable stuff with occasional shoulder size sets. The Takayama Egg worked like a charm for me.
The office building move was completed. I have never driven a diesel U-haul truck before. It was noisy, smelly and slow. It was so nice to get back in my own car!