More often than not, the idea of quitting all these web related stuff, just forget about the people, the friends, and everything, and just go surf whenever I feel like it, and not even write about it. Definitely it is an easy way out. I sometimes feel like this is not what I signed up for.
It has been more of a hard paddle out than getting fun rides, it really mirrors my current state of surfing too.
But there always are other compelling reasons not to stop.
In a nutshell, it is really not about the ocean but all of the friends that I came to know each other, who have helped build the surfing life style for me.
You might wonder even then why would that be important?
May be I can be very selfish to say this, but I am sort of relived that I am not all alone in this endevour of the sport. Whatever the reasons, people have identified themselves with what we do here. Surely this is not SurfPulse or Surfline. But somehow, I am a bit gratified to know that we have started a group on this corner of the universe and we are all tied each other with the sport of surfing in its core.
You are everywhere.
A few yeas back I came down with Shingles after coming back from Japan after seeing my dying father. I had not been that ill for many years. Finally almost I got through it, I went surfing, and someone stopped me to tell me that he has been folloing my blog and told me how I was doing OK.
Yesterday at the Jetty...
You know Hwy 1 just run by the ocean (in fact it is only but a few spot where Hwy 1 is right against the surf spot. The next spot is 360 miles south at Rincon!
There were about 4 cars that came by hoking at me - ex co-workers, local surfers, surf shop owner...
So I will continue to go with the "flow" of things. You all help us continue to build this. As we are all familiar we are dealing with a fluid world in and out of the ocean. Evey moment changes and different. I like that notion.
This morning, I was a lone surfer. I am still really puzzled as to where people go. There were some fun good waves out where I was. The egg worked really nice.