The condition this mooing was a tad improved over yesterday. This is to mean that the power has tamed a bit down, but it continues to close out at the JTY, and so I could not put so much good rides in.
Couple of issues I need to work on though;
- Overall I am not relaxing. I think that part of the issue is that if I go in the morning, I really feel like I need to catch lots of waves within an hour to 90 minutes session period and the work is in my mind. When I surf on weekends, I am much more relaxed for a 3 or even 3.5 hour session without any other pressure to get out at any specific time and I just let others have waves and also there always is some spot that other surfers overlook, or just let them have the first set, I come in on the second or the third of the set. What most people don't know is that it is usually the second or the third of the set that gets bigger than the first.
- I am still not up on the board quick enough and also not putting the weight down to the board. These things cause the board to slip out immediate after hopping on the board. My text book says that it is because the upper body is not relaxed as a result the body rigid and so not transferring the weight on the board. Or also quite often, the board takes off and I belly board all the way down wasting the whole surface. It is an element of fear working up for not standing on the board!
Surfing is difficult isn't it.
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