We have been treated with a major S swell that has started to hit our shores at 5-6 ft and 20+ seconds. Places that are normally not vibrant in the winter has really become alive, like the Jetty. It is so powerful that even the Jetty is starting to have major closeouts. So I do not know if this is a curse or not. With a record breaking hot weather, it has been really nice, and also the water was hitting 55F.
Not much improvement today that I can think of in terms of surfing. This is the second time I took out the Takayama DT4, and this time. The only spot that was breaking rather nicely was, as usually, very crowded. The swells have brought out some 20+ people in the morning!
With so much water pushing, once I wipe out, a lot of water will pile up on for a long period of time and hold you down under for a bit longer. But once I get out, just turn around, smile, and keep paddling out.