Thursday, April 08, 2004

Session 4058: Day 27/31 Big Day but not surfable!

Managed to get out of the bed by 6:15 to meet up with my SRF buddies this
morning. Checked the swells and was already 11-15 ft range with 20 seconds.
I know it is going to be really big.
Called Ed on the way to "a" spot and was told that they have given up
because it was just too big. So I checked out the Jetty for a few minutes.
It is amazing that this swell did not get in there very much. Looked flat
and calm. So I headed to the North. The Montra looked awful; massive 3 times
or even 4 times, I could not tell, closeouts going. Finally arrived in Linda
Mar and the north end looked like it was breaking at least double. There
were only two other surfers I could see in the vicinity of the S end where I
entered. The whole place was pretty junky. It was so soupy that I could not
find my way out, and the S to N current was so strong that I had even hard
time standing in one spot. I was a bit scared of being swept away to the
North where the big waves were waiting.

So it would have been better at the Jetty.

Since I have to surf for 31 consecutive days, I did go, caught a few
white-water rides, disgusted and got out. Then I saw Nick holding his little
girl Sophia. I showed him my "new" fish that I got and he was stoked about
it, so I somehow got back into a cheerful mode.

The swells are going to get even bigger in the afternoon, so that will be
something to see.

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