Phenomenal day at the Jetty. I think I wrote in my last spring's WavLog that
sometimes I would not surf anywhere else but the Jetty. It can get so good.
As for the condition it was not optimum but so many things went right that I
am giving a Stoke 9 today. It is a stoke 9 because;
a.. There was no crowd. Only one another woman surfer and me. She trusted
my judgment and followed me around for almost the entire session. She had
problems taking off though, sorry.
b.. More gentle sand-bar breaks today.
c.. Nice and Sunny
d.. Caught 8 or 9 waves in a short hour session, one after another.
A few negatives;
a.. The wind really picked up towards the end of the session.
b.. The water was only 50 F today.
c.. Many rides ended up in big shore breaks
Initially when I got in, I stayed in front of the storm drains. Swells were
coming in but all were too mushy and also fizzling out. But I saw some
sand-bar breaks to the south so I decided to paddle out there. For a while,
this area looked mushy too but then there was a period of time there were
7-8 ft wave faces breaking. They were easy paddle in rights and so it was a
blast to take off on them. My backhand turns are getting a bit more
confident and powerful so I can keep (but not yet increase) the speed. In
the past week, the bottom right turn has really started to take noticeable
shape, and now it is possible to gain some speed. The backhand turns can
also be more confident and actually do turn as opposed to not turning at all
and wiping out. So on typical rights it would start on a quick right turn as
I get up, then a backhand to go down the slope more straight then the bottom
right again. Previously, I mess up the first backhand but that's where I am
getting a bit better.
Though at the end the waves built up to a shoulder-high beach breaks with no
way of getting around (I guess that good people would pull out earlier
before the waves get to that stage). Nevertheless, because there is nobody
around, I just jump off the board to the other side of the break, and I'd be
all safe. Some times, I do get sucked in by the leash, but in just a few
seconds I can pop up.
Not related to surfing but yesterday, I started to see the first set of
"By-The-Wind Sailor Jelly" arriving at our beaches. So it is now a real