Friday, April 16, 2004

Session 4065: Great Sunset Surfing Stoke Level 8

I surfed 35 days straight and still two more days I can go for.
Arthur and I have surfed together this evening and there were some awesome but gentle overhead peaks we discovered far outside. Today I took out my 9'0 board and it was the right choice as the tide came up, the waves started to break bigger on the outside. Another nice thing is that once you get into the wave, the waves steeps up quickly so we picked up tremendous speed, and board starts to skip over the ripples. I have not had this kind of fast ride in quite a while.
Arthur had a really good ride and several more while I also had quite a few rides that were really fun on a nice sunset background. Kind of like a Bruce Brown sort of a day (where did the film crew go?).
Because of breaks coming so far outside, we had quite a bit of distance to ride and we rode one right to another and by the time we finished our session, we had to walk quite a bit of distance back north to where we started out.
As for myself, I am much more confident in turning so I am altering the line as I see fit, and creating different lines to keep the ride longer and also recovering from errors better now. I am really happy about the progresses I have been making. It was great also that Arthur did not mind getting way way outside, that is something very difficult for me to do (yes, due the fear) without someone else around.
We were also accompanied by a curious seal and also a huge dolphin that was blowing the air so high that I can locate them from behind breaking waves.

No comments: