Monday, April 26, 2004

Session 4069: Mellow and Glassy Morning. Stoke 7.Almost caused an accident.

Finally back to the routine. I stopped by at the JT to surf for about an hour on the way to work. With practically no wind and with a fairly long period swells (14 seconds, 6-7 ft), the place was good. Already there were 7 or 8 of us out there in the morning. Anticipating a small condition, I took out my new favorite gold fish (I am going to call it this way because it is red and yellow).
I am really into surfing with this puny board, and I also really look the way this board looks like. It looks like a board you see on surfing cartoons as its painted in two basic solid colors. As for surfing, it is becoming more fun with it. This one is almost totally opposite of the Takayama DT4. There is so much flotation in the back of the board that to kick up the speed initially as I paddle in to take off, I press the back down a bit, resisting the tail lift up and board shoots me out... kind of like a crotch rocket. I see why this is a good board for small condition, it just has this rockety characteristics.
The HMB residents are all aware that the traffic slows down by the Jetty. This morning this Subaru dude was looking at me while I was changing. Next thing I hear a loud rubber screech sound. The guy narrowly misses a pickup truck that was in front of him stopped at the light.  I see also this happen near Linda Mar about 2-3 times a season too.
Like surfing, look at where you are going, or you are not a surf dude!

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