The sun was out, sky is clear blue and the clean sand at Gray Whale cove
invited all of us to enjoy this beautiful summer afternoon with all our
friends. The condition was a bit variable as there were period of calm with
real swells then there were period where a bunch of wind-swells prevented me
from getting out. The biceps burning factor was probably 6 or 7. This is a
kind of situation where you are paddling and paddling, and when you look
back, you have not moved an inch. Finding a good channel is the key but it
is so difficult to find it, and ride out.
We had occasional overhead waves there were actually fairly clean, and could
ride those well with shorter boards. But unless I completely master the duck
diving technique, it was nearly impossible to get to these good waves.
I was joined by Nick and Steve this afternoon, and in these kind of
conditions, having lot of friendly support is very comforting. So I must
thank them for showing up.
Some day, this wind swell stuff is going to end, and we will be blessed with
clean NW swells from the Alaskan gulf or south hemi, and I can get out and
catch every single surfable break!