There was no wind and we were not fogged in. The wave direction has shifted
more westerly with dominant periods getting longer than 8 seconds, plus
medium tide. A formula for good condition.
The sets were fairly far between this morning, and the benefit of that is
that it was easy paddle out, then for every 5-10 minutes slowly growing
shoulder to OVH sets coming, especially on the north end.
I have been having excellent luck with the north end, but this morning is
one of the better yet. As I waited for the sets, what appears to be a double
over head wall coming. I just said to myself, just relax and started to
paddle in in a slow pace. Then the board started to pick up the speed. Wow!
I caught the wave, and next I am rushing into the bowl of the wave almost
straight down. I was already flicked up and dropping down so fast. Then the
front of the board started to planing up. I am up on the board and gliding
the face of the wave so fast. In front of my face is the breaking lip of the
wave. It is a left, my favorite.
The surface I was riding was smooth right under me, I have leaned to the
left and board started to curve a gentle left. A moment later, the board
slowed down indicating the usual end of the ride, but then the inside reform
started to happen, I was picked up again into a shoulder high peak then kept
going all the way to the beach. The ride seemed to have lasted forever and
when the ride was over, I was just so stoked and smiling.
There was another long boarder having a lot of fun in the break.
It was really great because everyone staying around the pump house, while
just a few braved to the North end this morning.