Tuesday, July 15, 2003

Surfing TUE 1700 @ LM Stoke = 6.5

Have been having a bit of problem getting up early and go lately because of
our latest conditions, mainly. But you can say that is an excuse and it is.
So tomorrow I will get up and go before I get to work. How does that sound!

This afternoon at LM, I had a stoke level 6.5 experience. It was not quite 7
because I did not get into a long ride, and was a bit difficult to get out
and the waves were mixed in with a lot of local wind waves, making the
surface rather choppy. Sometimes choppy is fun, but today there were periods
that was just choppy and they were "big" choppy where we were all floating
up and down good 3-4 ft without anything breaking. Of course, in this kind
of situation the near-shore breaks are very frequent (3-4 seconds) and big
enough (to hip to chest high) so that makes getting out really a workout.

Started to surf in front of the parking area and I was hoping to see if I
can move north from this point, but then it became rather rough out there,
so I got out, and walked to the south end. The wave quality was noticeably
better here, so I got several good take-offs. By the way, I used my 8'6
mini-Malibu out today. I was almost going to take the short board out but I
kind of promised to everyone that I am going to sign up for the HMB surfing
classic with a hope of getting to the last place without looking too badly,
so I am going to practice long boarding a bit since I am sure that short
bard heats are going to be much more intense.

While we did get some OVH waves from time to time, they were all mushy and I
think I now know that local wind swells tend to cause these mushy type
waves, but were breaking further out so they were quite ridable and fun.

As for how I will estimate tomorrow, the HMB buoy indicates that whatever
out there is still holding up and are on an average "up" trend in the last
several hours, so similar conditions will be expected, but in the morning,
again, we are still in the minus tide region so it might break too quickly
on our beach breaks. The wave quality are all STEEP so expect some more
chops! I am going to go in the AM, and see if what I said is true or not.

Good night and have fun in the morning if you are going to go.

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