After looking at the Santa Cruz Westside, and so flat, I surfed Saturday
around noon at Manresa with the 7'6 board. The waves were chest to hip high
the best. But the place was not crowded and a lot of sun, no wind, and on
Sunday at 8 a.m. at Linda Mar. Waves were about 3 - 4 ft 8 sec NW both days
with the power significantly winded down through Saturday into Sunday, so it
was not much.
Strangely enough (as far as I am concerned), in contrast with having so much
luck earlier with bigger waves, I did not have any decent take offs on both
days. What actually happens is that I pearled on both locations, and these
are baby waves.
So I am analyzing what happens.
- It appears that in these conditions, the size of the crest is so small
that neither of the boards fit.
- The wave closes out too soon and too close to the shore that there isn't
much I can do.
One technique that seemed to have a better effect on these condition is that
I start paddling hard and longer so that by the time I am ready to take off
I have enough speed and do not need to get the help from the wave to get me
up. So a longer board is actually more effective in these kinds of
conditions.
Now I am starting to think that these very small waves are actually
difficult to learn to surf on.
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