Friday, July 11, 2003

Friday Morning 0700 at LM, Stoke Level 7

What a wonderful morning. I got up this morning and checked the Scripps map of our area and the color has brightened up in our area significantly over night. Checking the CIDP at Bodega and also in HMB showing lots of steep swells, I was a bit worried about the waves just being junky, but there were some hopes, so I put on the gear and headed to work via the coast.
As I passed Montara and it was breaking solid and harder than the last couple of days, and even the Gray Whale Cove looked promising. This is a good indication that LM can become fun. After almost a couple of weeks of flat spells this was something I have been waiting.
We did back my favorite harder OVH breaks at LM, and they were breaking further out!  I am so stoked and happy! My last night's prediction did work and the overall swell pattern DID shift to more westerly pattern. There was a moderate side-shore wind too.
The beach was not crowded as the area was fog covered and freezing, but on these kinds of days, we get to enjoy catching waves and try to be a bit more radical in trying maneuvers as you can own 25 yards left and right of you with nobody to get in your way. Getting out to the outside line was a bit of work at times, especially I still don't do ducking very well, but there was a mini-channel opened up, and once I found and rode it, it was an easy out.
The north end of LM is becoming one of my favorite lineup as I can almost always connect the outside and inside sections, and I had a phenomenally long ride this morning on my fun board. To top this off, I had a very clean drop down from an over head break, through the speed still scares me a bit and did not turn harder, so I go way too ahead of the waves and just lose momentum. But I am now turning a bit harder and I can now, compared to just even a couple of months ago.
One thing I noticed is that I have been landing on the board too far forward, as today, my right foot happened to land on the pad and that made turning much more effective!  So, I am very excited.
The Jetty was really flat.
Hope this holds up in our area through Saturday!

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