Friday, July 25, 2003

Fri AM Surf Wrapup. The Linda Mar North End - Continue to Work Wonders! STOKE=8

As I approached Montara this morning, the fog was so dense, that I thought
this will be another fog surfing day in Pacifica. But Montara was breaking
fairly nicely and looked surfable, so as I always say, this indicates that
North end of Linda Mar will have some waves. As I went over the Slide, the
fog started to thin out and you can see the sun through the fog like someone
holding a flashlight in the sky. The LM was totally clear!

The waves looked rather mellow as I gotten myself ready, and I ran over to
the north.

More wind-swells are back this morning. While there were calm periods, they
were not long enough and soon a bunch of short period swells sweep in, and
making it difficult to get out, also the wind was picking up rather strong
and that made going out a bit tougher than usual. In these types of
situations, I just relax and paddle out without really thinking about when I
get to the outside. I know I will get outside if I just keep paddling
keeping the pace. I remember it used to me tire out just by looking at other
better surfers just going past me. It still happens but now I don't really

In front of the pumps the waves were going probably at hip to chest high but
holding the shape. But the current pushed me into the North so I also
paddled into that direction. There were 2 or 3 other surfers, as usually is
the situation. I was in the zone with shoulder or a bit higher breaks. I
used to be very intimidated by just looking at these waves from the shore,
but these waves are fairly gentle and the slope tend to hold and build up,
making it especially fun to take off on. By then I was put onto the next
inside reform section, executed a backside turn back into going left. This
ride was a better one than I had earlier this week because I was able to do
the turns much more smoother. The whole time of the ride it gotten so quiet
and felt like I was almost riding on a cloud. Then finally it ends with the
sound of waves crumbling onto the beach.

I was so stoked immediately paddled back for more.

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