Tuesday, July 08, 2003

Montara PM, Stoke Factor = 5

Due to an early morning meeting, I had to postpone my daily surfing session to this evening at 6:30. Did surf check at Rockaway, LM, Montara, JT, and Francis beaches. Essentially all of the beaches were all flat. The only place that had any chance seemed to be the Montara beach, so I drove back all the way from Kelly to surf here.
We had occasional sets of up to shoulder level high waves but there were all very mushy, and if you go over them they will crumble under you. So riding on them were a bit of challenge from the stand-point of taking off. I am a big amazed by myself that I am now demanding a harder and faster breaking condition. May be it is a bad sign that I am about to get a one-way ticket to a short-boarder-dom... well I wish.
They were breaking a bit too close to the shore and when this happens, the wave riding collides with shorebreak/backwash situations. Sets often doubled up today that made the backwash situation even worse, and I got a bit greedy and caught in a shorebreak abruptly ending otherwise a one nice ride. A bit too late in bailing, next thing I was tumbling in the water like being in a front-loading washing machine.
Got a few more slow rides, but mainly paddling and paddling as the break shifted. As usual the area I have just left is where it broke next.
There was one spot at very far north end of the beach, should I stayed there it would have been OK.
As I entered the water, the lineup was at slightly south of the creek, then I found the north end break, and started to paddle. Soon I heard others splashing their paddling hands behind me and they were all lined up with me.
In spite of the waves, the weather was just so sunny and warm that it was just relaxing and enjoyable just be in the water with the beautiful sand and mountain behind the line up.
It looks like this low wind-swell only pattern will continue for at least for a few more days, if not less.

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