Many of my friends like "bigger" days. Personally I don't like "bigger" days. They don't do anything for me. They are hard to paddle out to, and difficult to catch too. I would rather have shoulder to overhead size days with fewer closes out sets and really ride the ridable faces to my heart content. I don't really have an urge to tell people that "Manabu would go" type stories. This preference, obviously is more unique to just a few of my friends because it seems that 9 out of 10, other surfers biggest complains are "not big." I have been to situations that were double overhead size waves, and while I can get out and surf and all, I still don't and cannot enjoy much. It is largely due to my skill levels, for sure.
So this morning was just perfect. I like the tail end of the "bigger days." With very little wind going and if any going at side to offshore directions, easy paddle out and there were just plenty of good waves for me to catch. I was catching so many fun waves that I was almost feeling guilty of other bros who were there with me, but actually I was selecting easier and smaller spots that were happening more consistently, rather than going to the outside sand-bar where once in a while bigger sets would break. Besides, I was on a 6'3 board, so I could use a bit more boost from the inside break anyhow.
Today, one thing I really realized was that I was still looking down. I though that I was not, but I was because I was looking down for 2-3 seconds ahead of the line, and not the entire horizon ahead of me. We had a Stokemasters discussion regarding this, and I have realized that I was still not looking at the horizon. And when I did that it was so much more helpful. It is amazing a simple few words like "gaze at the horizon" have so much profound differences in the riding experience. It was so much easier to pick a better line than ever before.
I am really thankful for everyone to come to support my "surfing lifestyle." Because if I have never met them and talked to them, I don't think that I would have advanced even to this point. I want everyone to know that I almost flanked the Ph-Ed classes in middle school because I did not want anything to do with sports back then (but if there was surfing at school that may have changed that in retrospect.)
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