I had double header sessions today, which is usually possible in these long summer days. Speaking of that I am really happy to hear that we are extending the daylight saving in 2007, it is about time, and I would hope that California stays DST all year. For surfing, I think it is a better idea, even though, I'd miss DP, I think a lot of surfers can continue to surf after work.
The clock starts to be ticking now before Dog House moves out of our area and hit the east coast. That will be a sad day for losing a great surfing friend, but also that would be a good day to send him and his family off to their new adventure! This would be the last summer for him in California, at least, for a while. I wish that I started out surfing sooner since we actually surfed just this season together, but I must say I shared many fun waves.
The main reasons that I am going to miss surfing so much with him is that there has not been anyone else that agree so much with the philosophy of catching waves. For example, this afternoon, we were in this puny hip high waves breaking really close to the shore, and we both were having a blast catching waves after waves, and we both still can have a lot of fun taking occasional longer rides.
Forgive me, if I sound like I am boosting my abilities, but you got to know that this is my personal log of my own progress, this is not about comparing myself with other surfers, which I know it does sound like it sometimes. But part of the reasons that we can both do this is because we now both have skills to enjoy all sorts of waves.
After I got out of the water I was talking about this with Surf Doggies who also joined us, and I was talking to him that I used only be able to surf at Cowells or Inside 38th, but no place else. After this February or so this has changed to me, and to a good extent I do no longer need to go to Santa Cruz to find waves to surf, and that's because I can catch a wider range of size and shapes of waves, and also I can paddle out in to a wider range of situations too.
So I was thinking more about that today, and part of the reasons why this has happened to me is because I became simply more familiar with dealing with the water more so that how well I can take off or turn. This level of the comfort has really contributed for me to be much more relaxed in the water.
Then why I got there is because I was fortunate enough to hook up with some of the most experienced and friendly local surfers and go out surfing on a regular basis.
I must say though, and if you read my previous WavLOGs you know that at an early stage, it was a struggle to catch up with these guys. But eventually I got a point that I don't hesitate to call them and they don't hesitate to call me to get out on a session. To some extent I think I paid the dues. Before I could do this, though there were hundreds of sessions where I had to do it myself.
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