This morning's DP was brutal! The size probably wasn't a big deal but there were so many white water breaks that I could not just move forward to the outside. It really is reflecting the current state of my work life. There are so many things to needing to be finished but because of the volume of the things I have hard time feeling like I am making any progress!
Zero rides today, and there certainly have been many days in my surfing career that I had zero rides.
In retrospect though I got a lot of excercise and of course that's the main reason I go out every day, and more I do it, more confident I get in any kind of conditions!